A rare treat? (restaurant review)

Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; March 6, 2008

The new Jerusalem-based branch of Papagaio offers a good show and good meats. It's only a shame that attention to the finer culinary details is missing.

Only one week after opening, the kosher branch of Papagaio in the Talpiot neighborhood in Jerusalem was full on a weekday night. Out of 150 places, only about 20 were empty: the rest filled with kippa-wearing, baby-clutching families and itchy children; the odd meat-guzzling men's night out was also in evidence. The South American grill can thank the success of its five other branches - located in Tel Aviv, Herzliya, Eilat and Haifa - for some advance marketing.

This was my first visit to the chain and allow me to say in advance that I'm not a huge beef lover (I order steaks on special occasions) but the design and concept tempted me. Papagaio offers an all-you-can-eat "Churrascarias" dinner for NIS 140; the meat keeps coming and the diners keep dining, preferably until they pop.

The restaurant is probably one of the largest in Jerusalem. Spread over 500 square meters its design raises the bar for the capital: the handsome leather chairs and booths and finely set wooden tables; the wedding-cake shaped chandeliers; and the large bar adorned with a now seemingly de-rigueur LCD monitor. Across from the bar is the wide-open grill.

The meal here starts with breads, spreads, and salads and then come 12 different kinds of meat. (Lunch comes with eight kinds of meat for NIS 90.) On the table is a "stopper" which diners use to signal to the waiters red for "STOP" and green for "GO" to pace the service. Our waiter brought out a platter of fruit cocktails for an aperitif. Although made only from pure frozen fruit pieces, sugar and (if desired) alcohol, these drinks were mediocre and pulpy.

While it's recommended to come to Papagaio very hungry, overcome the temptation to indulge that hunger with the opening salads. While they are prepared fresh daily and include coleslaw, Israeli salad, spicy carrot salad and sweet potato salad, they are not good or creative enough to justify padding the stomach. Stick with the fresh, light Israeli salad, which may need some more seasoning.

As my dining partner pointed out, all-you-can-eat grills often start with the cheaper, lightweight meats first. Papagaio proved no exception to the rule.
First we were served two kinds of chicken wings (one with the salads) and then drumsticks grilled in a sweet marinade; then came the chorizo sausages, lamb kebab and chicken skewers. Overall these dishes had the quality of a well-done, professional barbecue. The liver that followed, however, was a little too charred for my taste.

We didn't use the red/green stopper for a while. The waiters kept filling our places. This makes Papagaio a sore choice for intimate conversation - we were continually interrupted. Finally, we put the stopper on red so we could finish our train of thought and let our stomachs settle to welcome the beef.

One sirloin, sliced thin, was flavored with salt seasoned with fresh herbs, and another with garlic sauce. Then came the large, impressive boneless rib carved on the spot, and I was too full to really enjoy it. I realized there comes the point of diminishing returns.

I waited a little and made my way through the entrecote, which looked particularly appetizing. It still sizzled when it was brought to our table on a skewer the size of a sword. The waiter carved the meat professionally according to our request: medium on one side and medium- well on the other. I regretted my fullness, because I really could have enjoyed the fine and juicy pieces.

Doggie bags, by the way, aren't allowed at Papagaio. "The meat should be tasted sizzling hot, straight off the grill," is the manager's inadequate explanation. (I imagine what he really means is that the restaurant fears the greedy Israeli consumer who might feed a family of four on the offerings.)

Finally dessert: The chocolate fondue was more like a bowl of liquid brownie goop. (These are made on the spot and take 12 minutes to bake; I think they rushed ours.) The overly moist carrot cake was drowning in a grapefruit sauce.

Overall, if you're looking only for the food and not for the show (although there's a show there too), you may want to try South American Vaquiero on Rehov Hanevi'im instead. This relatively veteran Jerusalem restaurant offers an excellent eat-as-much-as-you-like 10-12 meats option for NIS 129 which includes dishes such as goose in orange sauce.

Those deciding to dine at Papagaio need to pace themselves and not be shy in rejecting the servers' constant bid to fill the plates. Either that, or ask to be served the offerings in reverse, starting with the beef. I doubt they would actually agree, but you never know....

Rehov Yad Harutzim 3, Jerusalem.
Tel: (02) 674-5745. NIS 140 for unlimited meats, salads and breads. An upgraded deal for NIS 185 includes cocktails, a cold and hot drink, and dessert.
Atira Winchester contributed to this review.