Jerusalem Post, In Jerusalem; January 25, 2008
Click here for original
Local writers of Jewish non-fiction need look no further than their hometown to publish their books.
On a recent cool Thursday night in Baka, some 100 people gathered at Yedidya Synagogue to celebrate the launch of Arc 19, the new edition of an annual journal of English short stories and poetry.
As journal contributors, backdropped by photographs and etchings by local artists, took turns reading aloud their pieces to a captive Anglo crowd, the synagogue transformed into a literary salon.
Arc 19 is one of the few established outlets for English-language writers to get their poetry and short stories published and distributed locally. It was started in 1982 by the Israeli Association of Writers in English with a rotating editorship as part of the association's goal to promote English writing in Israel.
"Loads of Anglo-Saxons who write come to Jerusalem. There are three or four ongoing groups where people meet on a weekly or bi-weekly basis to work on writing or to develop writing," says Judy Labensohn, the coordinator for Bar-Ilan University's Shaindy Rudoff Graduate Program in Creative Writing, which was launched in 2002 to nurture Jewish writers.
"Jews read and write. We're the 'people of the book.' Writing is one way of dealing with all the excitement of being in Jerusalem - the emotions, the associations," she adds.
For most of the writers at the launch party, however, Jerusalem is not the place to look for a broad platform to publish their original fiction.
"I think most people writing fiction in English probably try to get published abroad. I certainly do," says Mordechai Beck, this year's co-editor of Arc 19 with Jeffrey Green.
Authors writing non-fiction about Torah, Judaism and Jewish spirituality, on the other hand, can easily find local outlets for publication. Jerusalem is home to close to a dozen publishers of English-language books specializing in Jewish interest non- fiction, including Feldheim, Gefen, Mazo, Simcha and Urim. Educational institutes, such as the Shalem Center, Yad Vashem and Hebrew University, also operate presses that publish English books and journals in scholarly fields.
The size of Jerusalem's English publishing industry owes its strength to the influx of olim from English- speaking countries.
"There is a whole creative world of English writing in terms of editing and publishing in a city that is really a foreign country," says Stuart Schnee, a Jerusalem-based book publicist and book "shepherd" who guides aspiring authors through the writing and publishing process. "There is always a new title coming out of Jerusalem."
Still, "I see less fiction than I do of other things," he adds. "It doesn't mean there aren't 25 writers now pumping out great fiction. It could be that in Jerusalem there is so much going on that inspires non-fiction - politics, news, etc."
The proliferation of Jewish publishers in the capital of the Jewish world may have some sociological roots.
Jews in general are known to read more than other cultures, explains Hebrew Union College Prof. Steven M. Cohen, who specializes in Jewish social policy. Cohen attributes this trend to Jewish communities' emphasis on education and their drive to advance culturally to overcome their sense of exclusion from the larger society.
Religious Jews in particular are known bibliophiles, he adds. "Just as religious Christians are noted for their high rates of book-buying, so too do religious Jews have a special added interest in reading, be it explicitly for religious-oriented learning or as a leisure activity on Shabbat or holidays."
Publishers of Jewish or religious-oriented non-fiction generally have to look no further than Israel's borders to find manuscripts.
"In Israel there are more authors of the kinds of books I can publish in English than in America," says Yaakov Feldheim, semi-retired president of Feldheim Publishers, which annually publishes some 30 "true Torah" English titles about Jewish law, Orthodox Jewish life and biblical commentaries.
"Anybody who's religious, who really wants the utmost religious experience, will come to Israel sooner or later," says Feldheim. "I'm at the hub of the renaissance of Judaism in the world."
Feldheim's father founded the publishing house in New York in 1940 to meet a demand for English books catered to an Orthodox audience. He created the Jerusalem branch in 1967, a few years after making aliya.
Today Feldheim Publishers exports about $5 million worth of books a year and last year opened three retail bookstores in Jerusalem, one in Bnei Brak and one in Beit Shemesh to cater to the local English-speaking market.
Among Feldheim's authors are American-born Rabbi Baruch Finkelstein and his wife Michal, co-authors of B'sha'ah Tova: The Jewish Woman's Guide to Pregnancy and Childbirth and The Third Key: The Jewish Couple's Guide to Fertility.
Currently residents of Beit El, they sought out publishers in the US, but decided to go with Feldheim "because they have a good name and it was convenient that we're here. We could work with them easier," says Baruch Finkelstein.
The immediate accessibility to the Hebrew-speaking religious market has been another advantage of publishing in the Jewish homeland, with B'Sha'ah Tova's Hebrew version enjoying 40 percent more in sales than the original English.
"ORIGINALLY, 95 percent of our authors came from Israel," says Simcha Publishing director Yaacov Peterseil. "In the last two years we decided to branch out and we put ads in the US. Now we're inundated."
As more authors are being pooled abroad, more readers of Jewish titles in English are emerging in Israel. "Until around 2004, we kept only between 5-7 percent of the books we printed here in Israel. Ninety percent went to the States mostly," continues Peterseil. "Now things have changed. We're printing larger quantities in the first print run, but more importantly we keep 20% to 30% of print runs because of the growth of the English-language book market in Israel."
According to Ilan Greenfield of Gefen Publishing House, 5,000 sales for a Jewish book is a success. Many of his top sellers are considered "sleepers," trend-defying books that sell consistently over the course of several years.
Founded in 1981, Gefen publishes about 30 English titles a year, covering Judaism, Zionism, and Israel-related subjects for Jews across the religious spectrum, as well as for Christian Zionists.
"We believe the Christian market is a very large market for books about Israel, the Holy Land and Judaism as well," says Greenfield.
Still, Gefen rarely ventures into fiction. "It's a different ball game," explains Greenfield. "There's much greater competition in the American market. The Jewish market is not big enough for that. We publish a very wide variety of books on the one hand, but sometimes you have to limit yourself and not do certain things. We think there are other publishers that do that better."
One such example, says Greenfield, is Toby Press, which was founded in 1999 by New York immigrant Matthew Miller.
Although the Toby editorial staff is based in Jerusalem, Toby brands itself as an independent American publisher of literary fiction, with another office in Connecticut and 20 salespeople stationed across North America, where the books are printed and bound. North America and England account for about 90% of its sales.
Also, Toby does not cast itself as a Jewish publisher, even though a third of its authors are Jewish (including translated authors), such as contemporary writers Haim Sabato and Emuna Elon and veteran Israeli writers S.Y. Agnon and Chaim Nachman Bialik.
"I think if you look at any publisher of fiction in America, it's about a quarter Jewish anyway," says Miller.
Toby Press puts out three catalogues, one for a full range of English titles, one for titles of Jewish interest and one for Hebrew titles.
Topping its recent general fiction list are Tom Coffey's Blood Alley, Christiana McKenna's The Misremembered Man and Donald Harrington's Father Along.
Last year Toby solidified its critical standing when one of its authors, Tamar Yellin, was honored as an emerging writer for The Genizah at the House of Shepher with the Jewish Book Council's $100,000 Sami Rohr Prize for Jewish Literature. Toby's translated title, Our Holocaust, by Amir Gutfreund, got runner-up.
While local writers may see Toby as a local address appreciative of the Anglo-Israeli experience, Miller doesn't give preference to "ex-pats."
The focus is on quality writing, Miller says. "I'm not going to take a local American ex-pat over Agnon."
An exception was New York native Sherri Mandell's The Blessing of a Broken Heart, a personal, lyrical account of the Mandell family's struggle to regain their lives in the aftermath of their 13-year-old son's murder during the intifada.
"We were very proud to publish it, but I couldn't believe that major houses in NY didn't want to touch it," says Miller.
He attributes the book's rejection by publishing houses in the US to discomfort they may have had with the material.
The book sold thousands of copies abroad and received the National Jewish Book Award by the Jewish Book Council. An American adaption of the book into a play debuted at the San Diego Repertory Theater on January 4.
But such success is rare. It takes a special book to cross into the American market, says Jerusalem-based literary agent Sharon Friedman.
ONE SUCH "special book" was Indian-Israeli author Sophie Judah's Dropped From Heaven, which caught the attention and favor of Friedman, who sold the book to Random House.
The collection of short stories, which Judah completed as part of the Shaindy Rudoff MA program, brings to life the under- explored Bene Israel Jewish community of India. "There was something universal about the stories. You don't have to be Indian or Jewish to appreciate or enjoy them," says Friedman.
Judah didn't write the collection with the explicit aim of publishing. "I didn't think it was a dream that was feasible," says Judah.
"When you have the ambition, the hope, it's easy to despair," Judah jokes. "When you don't have the ambition, hope, you don't despair."
Having completed a book tour in the US last November, Judah describes her audience as largely Jewish American, with a small non- Jewish Indian following.
"An Indian bought 30 copies because he was meeting Jews the next day on business," recalls Judah. "It was really nice. Suddenly I was representing two countries."
The challenge has been in getting the book translated into Hebrew, says Judah. "They [Hebrew-language publishers] don't want to translate books that aren't a best-seller."
Some Jerusalem-based authors who have made a successful crossover include Naomi Ragen, Michael Oren and Friedman's client Dr. Aviva Zornberg.
"Most publishers don't buy just a book, they buy a name or name brand, the author they feel can get on talk shows or have a following or platform," explains Friedman. "Non-fiction is very platform-oriented."
Jerusalem-based author Allen Hoffman, who made aliya from St. Louis 32 years ago, says it's difficult for any fiction writer to get published, regardless of where they are based.
"I don't want to discourage anyone; I don't think it's easy for anyone really [to publish]," says Hoffman, who is writer-in- residence of the Shaindy Rudoff MA program and has worked with many Israel-based fiction writers and poets over the years. "I'm certain that some of our students who have already finished will go on to publish successfully, but it's not easy. Very often good writers receive rejection before they publish successfully. That's not uncommon at all."
Julie Baretz, a graduate of the first class of the Shaindy Rudoff MA program, wrote as her MA thesis a novel set during the intifada about a woman with fertility problems who turns to a Palestinian man to act as a surrogate father.
Although she received encouraging feedback from her professors, she became disillusioned with the publishing process. "The process of writing the novel was a piece of cake compared to trying to find an agent and publisher. I've put it aside for now," she says.
Some local writers have decided that the best way to publish is to do it themselves. Ibis Editions, a non-profit organization and small press based in Musrara, was founded in 1998 by three American-Israelis - Peter Cole, his wife Adina Hoffman and Gabriel Levin - to publish Levant-related literature. The trio run the press as volunteers, from the clerical work to the translation to the actual publishing.
"We felt that there was a whole category of literature from this part of the world that no one else was publishing - whether for economic or political reasons, or because of literary sensibility - and we had a few specific projects on hand that we wanted to turn into books. It snowballed fairly rapidly after that," explain Hoffman and Cole over email.
Ibis translates into English poetry and belletristic prose from languages of the region such as Hebrew, Arabic, French, Greek, German and Ladino. Part of their artistic vision is to de-ghettoize literary works, highlighting the cross-fertizilization between the languages, religions and cultures that have thrived and interacted on Levant-soil. Several Ibis works have received critical recognition and in 2007 Cole was awarded the 2007 MacArthur Foundation Fellowship, or "genius award," for poetry.
Jerusalem, as the crossroads of the civilizations in the Middle East, has been central to their work. "Many of our books grow out of conversations we've had with people here, whether writers who live here or writers or translators or scholars who pass through. And of course the actual subject of most of our books is this place - broadly defined - itself."
These include A Levant Journal by the Greek poet and Nobel Prize laureate George Seferis, and Saraya, The Ogre's Daughter, the final novel by the late Palestinian novelist (and Knesset member) Emile Habiby.
Most of Ibis's readers are located in the US and Europe. "Because we publish in English, and because, unfortunately, the state of local book distribution and local bookstores is so sorry, our audience here is more limited. This is too bad, of course, since what we're doing concerns this place deeply," say Hoffman and Cole.
Even though Jerusalem boasts Israel's largest English-speaking population, the local bookshelves rarely stock a rich variety of English titles.
The journal Arc 19, for example, is promoted and distributed through grassroots channels in Israel, like the event at the Yedidya Synagogue.
"It's almost impossible to sell it [Arc 19] in shops here," says Beck. "When I went to two or three major chains, they said 'We can't take it on. If we put Arc in the window, then anyone producing English journals will ask for the same privilege.' It becomes almost impossible to sell it the usual way. That's why we have more than one launch party."
(BOX) The write stuff
A best-seller in Israel is a book that sells over 5,000 copies, says Neta Goren, the director of the newly established Israel branch of the Jewish Book Council (JBC).
For major American publishers, this number constitutes only the first run of a book.
This means Israeli authors usually need to expand abroad to generate more sales, but reaching a foreign market, particularly an American one, is not always easy.
"Israeli writers in translation have a far greater audience in Germany, Italy and France than they would in America," explains Goren.
The Jewish Book Council was founded in 1940 to promote books of Jewish interest. Its Israel office hopes to act as a bridge between Israeli authors and the American market.
"It's very frustrating for Israelis because America has a large Jewish population and there ought to be a bridge. Culturally, generally Anglos tend to not buy translations from any place," adds Goren.
Matthew Miller, publisher of Toby Press, has noticed a similar American resistance to Israeli books, even among American Jews who would seem a natural audience for Jewish Israeli writers.
"What Israelis fail to realize is that six million American Jews have their own culture, their own questions, their own identity," explains Miller. "So what is a concern to an American may not be addressed by Israelis. For example, assimilation.
All those books by Phillip Roth or books about intermarriage, that doesn't exist in the Israeli scene."
Miller also likens the "angst" of contemporary Israeli writers to German angst rather than American angst.
"I think most books that are written here have a different mentality. It's a different culture, so a lot of books that are wonderful don't necessarily resonate with American readers," adds Jerusalem-based literary agent Sharon Friedman.
One key to unlocking American doors, says Goren, is quality translation. The Jewish Book Council is in the process of establishing an award for translations to encourage the art of translation and provide translators, often an underappreciated field, with financial incentives. "Without translation we have nothing," she says.
Usually Israeli publishers don't own translation rights, so many Israeli authors turn to the Institute for the Translation of Hebrew Literature, a government body that acts like a national agent for Israeli authors seeking to publish abroad.
Others vie for representation by the Deborah Harris Agency, a Jerusalem-based literary agency that represents some of Israel's leading talent, including Meir Shalev, David Grossman and most recently Ron Leshem, whose English translation of Im Yesh Gan Eden (Beaufort) by Jerusalem writer Evan Fallenberg has received a warm welcome in the US.
Writing via email from New York, Deborah Harris says there is an increased openness to Israeli writers, particularly young new voices like Leshem, Sayed Kashua, Yael Hedaya, Dorit Rabinayan, Amir Gutfreund and Etgar Keret.
Generally, however, she confirms America's xenophobia. Even though a successful crossover rests on superb content and marketing, "We need more serious support from the Ministry of Culture and the Foreign Ministry," she says. "We are working without support that would be considered natural in other countries."
Goren is hopeful. "At the annual Jewish Book Council Network Conference, people wanted to know what was going on in Israel. It's a connection they seek."
The Jerusalem Anglo community could be regarded as a testing ground for English translations of contemporary Israeli works, she adds. "This [local Anglo community] is our main target audience as well," explains Goren. "Part of my promotion is through that vehicle. I will hold readings and events for that audience. They live in Jerusalem but go back and forth to the US all the time.
"We have a buying potential here in Jerusalem that you don't have in Tel Aviv," she adds. "Still, it's hard to get English books in Israel."
Friday, January 25, 2008
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Gofer in the Galilee (book review)
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; January 3, 2008
Following the destruction of the second Temple by the Romans, Galilee was a haven for the Amoraic and Tannaitic sages, the authors of the Mishna and the Talmud. The rabbinic sages have long since left for the next world, but Amnon Gofer has established himself as a sage of multicultural tourism in northern Israel, and his recently published book Galilean Secrets (Sodot Glili'im, Am Oved 2007, NIS 129) can serve as a "mishna" for Israelis tourists, guiding the reader through northern towns in a simple, neat and well-organized manner.
Gofer, a resident of Kfar Havradim and former senior IDF officer, discovered his love for navigating the northern part of the country while working as a general manager of a radio station headquartered in a hotel up north. One day the director of the hotel requested, as a favor, that he take a group of Israelis on an informal tour through Galilee. It was near the mystical town of Peki'in that he saw his new calling. He quit his job two weeks later and dedicated himself full-time to discovering and sharing the secrets of the Galilee.
In Galilean Secrets he provides do-it-yourself trails for nine cities and towns: Safed, Gush Halav, Peki'in, Kfar Havradim, Tarshiha, Mi'ilya, Acre, Klil and Nazareth. As a self-made tour guide who discovered his secrets by venturing out on his own, he writes with mindfulness for newcomers.
Each chapter starts with a general description of the essence of the town followed by a "tour by numbers" map and key. He guides the reader step-by-step through the roads, alleys, markets and forests to the mainstream and more esoteric historical and religious landmarks, parks, eateries, craftsmen, artists, and even homes of longtime residents.
Through the body of each chapter, each spot on the trail is the subject of its own subheading. For some attractions, his elaborations are straightforward, providing only essential details; for others he provides folklore, legend, curious facts and even gossip. He has a good knack for honing in on the more interesting sites.
The synagogues and burial sites of the Jewish sages are among religious attractions covered in the book, and Gofer does an admirable job in balancing Druse, Muslim, Christian and Jewish points of interest, including mosques, churches, archeological digs, and even profiles of clergymen. His lively descriptions of the diverse residents dissipate any tension that might exist between the different religions represented in Galilee.
Gofer never leaves his readers hungry. At the end of each chapter he provides recommendations for family or home-based eateries, as well as the more commercial, flamboyant restaurants. He introduces us to bakers, soapmakers, winemakers, cheesemakers and olive oil makers of all kinds. In addition, he offers hotel, hostel and tzimmer options.
The book may be a challenging read for people with intermediate Hebrew reading skills, but is well worth the patience for those seriously interested in touring the north on their own. The Hebrew is elegant yet down-to earth and printed in a large font. Unfortunately the high-quality pictures - which complement the colorful descriptions throughout the book - lack captions, leaving the reader guessing at times.
Following the destruction of the second Temple by the Romans, Galilee was a haven for the Amoraic and Tannaitic sages, the authors of the Mishna and the Talmud. The rabbinic sages have long since left for the next world, but Amnon Gofer has established himself as a sage of multicultural tourism in northern Israel, and his recently published book Galilean Secrets (Sodot Glili'im, Am Oved 2007, NIS 129) can serve as a "mishna" for Israelis tourists, guiding the reader through northern towns in a simple, neat and well-organized manner.
Gofer, a resident of Kfar Havradim and former senior IDF officer, discovered his love for navigating the northern part of the country while working as a general manager of a radio station headquartered in a hotel up north. One day the director of the hotel requested, as a favor, that he take a group of Israelis on an informal tour through Galilee. It was near the mystical town of Peki'in that he saw his new calling. He quit his job two weeks later and dedicated himself full-time to discovering and sharing the secrets of the Galilee.
In Galilean Secrets he provides do-it-yourself trails for nine cities and towns: Safed, Gush Halav, Peki'in, Kfar Havradim, Tarshiha, Mi'ilya, Acre, Klil and Nazareth. As a self-made tour guide who discovered his secrets by venturing out on his own, he writes with mindfulness for newcomers.
Each chapter starts with a general description of the essence of the town followed by a "tour by numbers" map and key. He guides the reader step-by-step through the roads, alleys, markets and forests to the mainstream and more esoteric historical and religious landmarks, parks, eateries, craftsmen, artists, and even homes of longtime residents.
Through the body of each chapter, each spot on the trail is the subject of its own subheading. For some attractions, his elaborations are straightforward, providing only essential details; for others he provides folklore, legend, curious facts and even gossip. He has a good knack for honing in on the more interesting sites.
The synagogues and burial sites of the Jewish sages are among religious attractions covered in the book, and Gofer does an admirable job in balancing Druse, Muslim, Christian and Jewish points of interest, including mosques, churches, archeological digs, and even profiles of clergymen. His lively descriptions of the diverse residents dissipate any tension that might exist between the different religions represented in Galilee.
Gofer never leaves his readers hungry. At the end of each chapter he provides recommendations for family or home-based eateries, as well as the more commercial, flamboyant restaurants. He introduces us to bakers, soapmakers, winemakers, cheesemakers and olive oil makers of all kinds. In addition, he offers hotel, hostel and tzimmer options.
The book may be a challenging read for people with intermediate Hebrew reading skills, but is well worth the patience for those seriously interested in touring the north on their own. The Hebrew is elegant yet down-to earth and printed in a large font. Unfortunately the high-quality pictures - which complement the colorful descriptions throughout the book - lack captions, leaving the reader guessing at times.
Adventures of Adelina (restaurant review)
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; January 3, 2008
Owners of guest houses in the Western Galilee often dispatch their guests to Adelina for dinner, and with good reason. Adelina is arguably one of the best restaurants in the region.
Converted from the former cultural clubhouse of the kibbutz, Adelina is nestled in a quiet corner overlooking the beach and the kibbutz soccer field. Adelina maintained the original, naturally attractive stone design of the clubhouse, but the handsomely set tables and fine cutlery make one feel as if it were designed as a restaurant from the outset.
Adelina is named after Adelina Goldfeld, the founding chef who immigrated from Argentia in 1973. A kibbutz resident since 1980, Goldfeld studied at the prestigious Cordon Bleu in France and under renowned Spanish chef Feran Adria. The menu fuses Catalonian and Galilean cuisine with successful results.
The theme of the food was perfectly expressed in the sangria fruit cocktail which kicked off my meal: sensual, colorful, exotic and tasty. Adelina's next Spanish offering was its signature "tapas journey" (NIS 115 for two), a cohesive platter of tapas, which in Spain refers to small, individual dishes usually served before a meal or with a drink. Usually I refrain from ordering tapas because I feel teased by the small helpings, but as soon as the eight tapas were spread out on the table, I knew I was in for a culinary ride. First I had to overcome my fear of ruining the resplendent display; it looked like a work of art.
The "tapas journey" artfully balanced meat, seafood, vegetables and cheeses. The beef carpaccio gave me an indication of the tapas's high standards. The balsamic glaze and parmesan slices opened the fresh flavor and great texture of the deep-red beef. The expertly peeled grilled pepper with feta and minced calamari olives, while simple, was finely prepared. The Druse-inspired beef pastry, crispy dough wrapped around spicy, moist ground beef, was a triumph of taste and texture.
Two dishes should have been marked as aphrodisiacs. The bittersweet chocolate truffles filled with luscious pate and the aubergine cream so smooth it could have passed for a buttery dessert. The only ill-fated dish was the salty anchovy, which I quickly washed down with some sangria.
After this, who has room for another appetizer? But I took a bite out of the creative, crisp kadaif shrimp, a jumbo shrimp wrapped in this Arabic-style pastry dough.
One hundred percent mango sorbet smoothly cleared my palate for the entree.
While there was a respectable selection of gourmet entrees, I opted for a classic dish, beef fillet in wine (NIS 121). Sometimes a restaurant's treatment of a classic dish is the best indication of its culinary prowess. At Adelina, this is certainly true. The beef was perfectly cooked "medium," its grill marks visible, and its gentle red wine sauce adding depth while preserving the superb taste of the beef. The creamy, buttery potato mash and broccoli sides were deliciously yet simply seasoned, topped with grilled tomatoes and fennel.
For dessert, the server laid out sleeker cutlery to mark a shift in gears. I opted for the tapas dessert (NIS 52), a platter of four mini-desserts including a mango lemon tart, homemade pistachio ice cream, knaffe fingers and lemon cheesecake. While each tasted good on its own, after such a glorious journey, I think one simple dessert would have been a more settling landing.
Adelina, Kibbutz Kabri;
(04) 952-3707. Not kosher.
Owners of guest houses in the Western Galilee often dispatch their guests to Adelina for dinner, and with good reason. Adelina is arguably one of the best restaurants in the region.
Converted from the former cultural clubhouse of the kibbutz, Adelina is nestled in a quiet corner overlooking the beach and the kibbutz soccer field. Adelina maintained the original, naturally attractive stone design of the clubhouse, but the handsomely set tables and fine cutlery make one feel as if it were designed as a restaurant from the outset.
Adelina is named after Adelina Goldfeld, the founding chef who immigrated from Argentia in 1973. A kibbutz resident since 1980, Goldfeld studied at the prestigious Cordon Bleu in France and under renowned Spanish chef Feran Adria. The menu fuses Catalonian and Galilean cuisine with successful results.
The theme of the food was perfectly expressed in the sangria fruit cocktail which kicked off my meal: sensual, colorful, exotic and tasty. Adelina's next Spanish offering was its signature "tapas journey" (NIS 115 for two), a cohesive platter of tapas, which in Spain refers to small, individual dishes usually served before a meal or with a drink. Usually I refrain from ordering tapas because I feel teased by the small helpings, but as soon as the eight tapas were spread out on the table, I knew I was in for a culinary ride. First I had to overcome my fear of ruining the resplendent display; it looked like a work of art.
The "tapas journey" artfully balanced meat, seafood, vegetables and cheeses. The beef carpaccio gave me an indication of the tapas's high standards. The balsamic glaze and parmesan slices opened the fresh flavor and great texture of the deep-red beef. The expertly peeled grilled pepper with feta and minced calamari olives, while simple, was finely prepared. The Druse-inspired beef pastry, crispy dough wrapped around spicy, moist ground beef, was a triumph of taste and texture.
Two dishes should have been marked as aphrodisiacs. The bittersweet chocolate truffles filled with luscious pate and the aubergine cream so smooth it could have passed for a buttery dessert. The only ill-fated dish was the salty anchovy, which I quickly washed down with some sangria.
After this, who has room for another appetizer? But I took a bite out of the creative, crisp kadaif shrimp, a jumbo shrimp wrapped in this Arabic-style pastry dough.
One hundred percent mango sorbet smoothly cleared my palate for the entree.
While there was a respectable selection of gourmet entrees, I opted for a classic dish, beef fillet in wine (NIS 121). Sometimes a restaurant's treatment of a classic dish is the best indication of its culinary prowess. At Adelina, this is certainly true. The beef was perfectly cooked "medium," its grill marks visible, and its gentle red wine sauce adding depth while preserving the superb taste of the beef. The creamy, buttery potato mash and broccoli sides were deliciously yet simply seasoned, topped with grilled tomatoes and fennel.
For dessert, the server laid out sleeker cutlery to mark a shift in gears. I opted for the tapas dessert (NIS 52), a platter of four mini-desserts including a mango lemon tart, homemade pistachio ice cream, knaffe fingers and lemon cheesecake. While each tasted good on its own, after such a glorious journey, I think one simple dessert would have been a more settling landing.
Adelina, Kibbutz Kabri;
(04) 952-3707. Not kosher.
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Declining charm (restaurant review)
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; December 20, 2007
Aluma is located on a small street in Tarshiha, an Arab town on the outskirts of Kfar Havradim. For several years it has has been considered one of the most prestigious bistros in the Western Galilee, hosting some of the best chefs in Israel. However, during my recent trip to Western Galilee, my hosts at the guest houses did not recommend Aluma, as an option for dinner. I soon figured out why.
The interior of Aluma promised a pleasant dining experience. Its simple country French design was warm and inviting, but in no way ostentatious.
The food, however, proved adequate at best, certainly not as outstanding as I had expected - and hoped - it would be.
The meal was introduced with fresh homebaked bread served with a tasty olive spread, a punchy tomato spread (use sparingly!), and a fresh lentil dip. It took a downward turn with the "appetizer samples" (served only with the business lunch). The roasted eggplant, served on a bed of white beans, was much too bland. The veal carpaccio arrived buried under balsamic vinegar and arugula, and I couldn't help but wonder if it was an attempt to hide the rather oddly colored cuts of veal. The liver pate, served cold with grape jam and pistachio nuts, lay on a bed of hard shmaltz (chicken fat). The waiter assured me that the liver was supposed to be served like that, but the fat certainly clogged my enjoyment of the otherwise tasty pate. The perfectly crisp crab cakes, while flavored well, felt dry.
The transitional sorbet was not an effective amuse bouche; it was more like slush.
The meal segued into the rather pedestrian poulet stuffed with herbs, pistachio, raisins and dried tomatoes (NIS 78). The stuffing of the rather stingy portion had the aroma of packaged seasoning. But the vegetable side of steamed broccoli, carrots, string beans and kohlrabi clinched my conclusion that Aluma was far from living up to its former glorious reputation. The kohlrabi tasted rotten, and when I asked the server about it, he replied that kohlrabi simply tastes sour when cooked and that other customers have asked the same question. If that's the case, why keep serving it?
Hoping dessert would redeem the meal, I asked the waiter (who was very friendly but not too helpful in providing menu guidance) what he recommended.
"They're all good," he replied.
I was hoping for a solid recommendation, because at this point I needed a sure thing. The "dessert tasters" (NIS 38) came with samples of Galilean delights: malabi, pistachio ice cream and candied squash. They were quite good, but not good enough to save the overall lackluster meal.
After probing a little further, I discovered that Aluma has recently undergone several sous-chef turnovers in the kitchen that have led to inconsistency. I certainly caught Aluma on a bad day.
Tarshiha-Kfar Havradim road; tel: (04) 957-4477; www.aluma.co.il Not kosher.
Aluma is located on a small street in Tarshiha, an Arab town on the outskirts of Kfar Havradim. For several years it has has been considered one of the most prestigious bistros in the Western Galilee, hosting some of the best chefs in Israel. However, during my recent trip to Western Galilee, my hosts at the guest houses did not recommend Aluma, as an option for dinner. I soon figured out why.
The interior of Aluma promised a pleasant dining experience. Its simple country French design was warm and inviting, but in no way ostentatious.
The food, however, proved adequate at best, certainly not as outstanding as I had expected - and hoped - it would be.
The meal was introduced with fresh homebaked bread served with a tasty olive spread, a punchy tomato spread (use sparingly!), and a fresh lentil dip. It took a downward turn with the "appetizer samples" (served only with the business lunch). The roasted eggplant, served on a bed of white beans, was much too bland. The veal carpaccio arrived buried under balsamic vinegar and arugula, and I couldn't help but wonder if it was an attempt to hide the rather oddly colored cuts of veal. The liver pate, served cold with grape jam and pistachio nuts, lay on a bed of hard shmaltz (chicken fat). The waiter assured me that the liver was supposed to be served like that, but the fat certainly clogged my enjoyment of the otherwise tasty pate. The perfectly crisp crab cakes, while flavored well, felt dry.
The transitional sorbet was not an effective amuse bouche; it was more like slush.
The meal segued into the rather pedestrian poulet stuffed with herbs, pistachio, raisins and dried tomatoes (NIS 78). The stuffing of the rather stingy portion had the aroma of packaged seasoning. But the vegetable side of steamed broccoli, carrots, string beans and kohlrabi clinched my conclusion that Aluma was far from living up to its former glorious reputation. The kohlrabi tasted rotten, and when I asked the server about it, he replied that kohlrabi simply tastes sour when cooked and that other customers have asked the same question. If that's the case, why keep serving it?
Hoping dessert would redeem the meal, I asked the waiter (who was very friendly but not too helpful in providing menu guidance) what he recommended.
"They're all good," he replied.
I was hoping for a solid recommendation, because at this point I needed a sure thing. The "dessert tasters" (NIS 38) came with samples of Galilean delights: malabi, pistachio ice cream and candied squash. They were quite good, but not good enough to save the overall lackluster meal.
After probing a little further, I discovered that Aluma has recently undergone several sous-chef turnovers in the kitchen that have led to inconsistency. I certainly caught Aluma on a bad day.
Tarshiha-Kfar Havradim road; tel: (04) 957-4477; www.aluma.co.il Not kosher.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Klil: off the beaten path
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; December 13, 2007
Click here for original
Nestled in the green hills by Nahariya and fueled almost exclusively by natural energy sources, Klil takes organic, creative living to a different dimension
You'll probably need a GPS to get you to the entrance of Klil, but be warned: once you enter, it stops working. Klil consists of dirt roads carved through shrubby hills leading to custom-made one and two-story homes.
Klil doesn't look like it belongs in the tiny state of Israel. Residents' gardens consist of acres of land filled with organic herbs, orchards and olive trees. Colorful signs lead the driver to Klil's attractions, among them a goat cheese shop, a bakery and a few cafes, a soap and honey maker, and jewelry, glassworks and ceramic shops. Just watch out for the wild boars (don't worry, they don't attack humans, only agriculture); I almost ran over a pack late at night on the dirt road.
Klil, located 14km east of Nahariya was built as an ecological settlement in 1978. It started out with seven seed families and grew to accommodate some 100 families today. Dr. Irit Schreier, the head of the Klil community council, explained the principles behind the community in the wilderness.
'We call it an agro-ecological model of settlement that combines three elements: First is organic agriculture - it's forbidden to grow non-organic agriculture. The second is sustainable orchards - growing trees with simple methods that maintain ecological balance. The third is developing the wild greenery of the region.'
The residents try to use only natural sources of energy. Every home has solar electricity panels, but residents soon found that solar panels are not always enough, so they are backed up by generators.
There is a sense of refined beauty in Klil and it is a unique and quirky alternative to the more predictable resorts in the Golan and along the Kinneret. The residents are hospitable, and several Klil families have built tzimmers on their land to host out-of-towners. Here are some highlights, but don't worry about the GPS: part of the fun is getting lost and exploring on your own.
FOOD
Brunch at Smadar BeClil comes recommended if you're looking for delicious vegetarian food and friendly hospitality. Smadar and Yossi Yardeni, among Klil's first residents, converted the family's first home into a restaurant furnished with handcrafted wooden furniture both indoors and out. While cutting up organic vegetables from the kitchen, Yardeni explained the reason for her move from Jerusalem, where she was a student at the Bezalel School of Art.
'We decided our future needed more space; we wanted land,' says Yardeni. 'We loved the virgin nature of Klil; you can preserve it.' To realize the Klil dream, they bought land from Druse living in Galilee and started out in a tent: 'We were very self-sufficient; we grew vegetables, herded goats.'
They closed down their own organic goat-cheese dairy about six years ago, and Yardeni, now 50-years-old, considers managing her restaurant and two tzimmers as her form of retirement in comparison. The love she puts into her work is evident in the brunch, consisting of fluffy herb omelets, a plate of delicious goat cheese (including some from Klil's own cheesemaker), a platter of vegetables topped with Yardeni's own olive oil and fresh mint lemonade. (Don't miss her homemade guava jam.) For lunch and dinner she offers salads, sandwiches and homemade pastas.
Further along the rocky road is Cafe B'Clil, a well-kept camping ground with its own cafe for those who don't need the comforts - and expense - of a tzimmer. Camping tents go for NIS 80 per person (NIS 60 for children) and they come with mattresses only. The founder is Tamar Schoer, a former art teacher and veteran resident of Klil.
I visited the shanty cafe as the cooks were preparing for the Thursday night crowd. Open to the public only on weekends, the cafe is reminiscent of the cushioned-lined restaurant huts in Sinai, minus the desert, water and Beduin. The conditions may be simple, but the olive trees, avocado trees, white tents, and lots of green that surrounds Cafe B'Clil make this place exceptional.
Smadar BeClil: 04-956-1678; http://www.ohalimretreats.com/cafe_clil.htm
Cafe B'Clil: (04) 996-9432; 052-326-1898
CRAFTS
Craftsman and artists have made Klil their home for the inspiration and solitude the surroundings provide. For ceramist Yael Shemer, the electricity shortage has actually sparked a new way of working.
Moving to Klil ten years ago has forced Shemer to fire up her clay using a method she never thought she would implement when she learned ceramics as a Bezalel student: gas ovens. Electric solar panels were simply not strong enough for her to power the more widely used electric oven. Shemer has found that she prefers this method. The oxidation of the gas oven renders unpredictable, unique color streaks in her ceramic jugs, plates and mugs.
Inside her garage-like studio, her shelves are filled with dozens of literally half-baked works. As a result of the energy shortage at Klil, Shemer fires the oven only about three times a month, and the ceramics require several rounds in the oven.
Luckily for newer Klil resident Reut Keret, electricity isn't required for her work. She sells her own handcrafted jewelry from a little corner in the small house she shares with her husband. She named her small boutique 'Sundri', which means 'pretty woman' in Hindi since her jewelry is made using gemstones imported from India. She crafts jewelry using a method that requires minimal tools - and no electricity outlets. While her selection of jewelry is rather small, she sells striking gems that follow the length of the ear lobe.
Yael Shemer: (04) 980-4571; Sundri: 050-634-3114
ENTERTAINMENT
Ada Moril of Diane and Ada, a folk music duo popular on the folk and world-music circuit, has made her home in Klil for the past 30 years ago. When I stopped by her 'Yellow House,' as it is officially called, she and her family were in the middle of separating olives from the branches to make their own olive oil.
Sitting under an ancient olive tree, the Canadian-Israeli explained in native English how she moved to Klil to find a quiet place in nature focused on ecological living. 'Already in Canada I knew I wanted to live in the country, in the hills overlooking the sea.' She has fulfilled her dream: It was a clear day and the coast of Nahariya shone cobalt blue.
In her living room Moril hosts her own concerts as well as those of other folk acts. From her home she also leads groups on herb trails, explaining the culinary and medicinal properties of herbs that grow wild in the Klil hills.
www.diane-ada.com; www.clil.net/ada Tel: 04-996-9540
A BOON IN THE BOONDOCKS
If Klil feels like it's located at the end of the earth, then B'vadi Etzel Ayali's is at the farthest end. It takes a few turns on thin dirt roads to reach one of its two mountain cabins, built on stilts, but once you do, there are nothing but mountainous forests of mint green and gray-hued lavender to distract you. You can feel like you are the only two people who exist on earth, so be sure to come with someone you really, really like.
The cabin I stayed in was designed in wood and warm, reddish tones, but clearly the best part about the tzimmer was the view from the patio, smartly situated with its back to the rest of Klil. The only sign of life in the forests was a rundown crusader fortress located at Kibbutz Yehiam at the peak of a far hill. In the winter, water flows through Nahal Yehiam below, and the Jewish National Fund has carved out a hiking trail along it.
The cabin includes a lounge area, a fully stocked kitchen, and a small hot tub room adjacent to the bedroom. But you might have to ruin your private moment and tell the owner, Esti Ayali, when you want to use the hot tub; she needs to turn on the electricity generator to generate the bubbles. Esti and her husband, Yoav, live next door in their home and they're always available on their cell-phone (when you catch a line!) to cater to the guests' needs.
Blame it on the electricity solar panels, but lamps don't shine too brightly inside, adding to the intimate and romantic setting. There is no television - fortunately - but a stereo system with a small music selection. This trip's most relaxing moment came when this writer popped in one of their Mozart CDs and dropped on the queen size bed to the sounds of birds chirping in the carob trees.
NIS 1,500 per couple for two nights, including breakfast, on weekends; weekday discounts available.
Tel: 050-379-4661; www.eyali.co.il
Click here for original
Nestled in the green hills by Nahariya and fueled almost exclusively by natural energy sources, Klil takes organic, creative living to a different dimension
You'll probably need a GPS to get you to the entrance of Klil, but be warned: once you enter, it stops working. Klil consists of dirt roads carved through shrubby hills leading to custom-made one and two-story homes.
Klil doesn't look like it belongs in the tiny state of Israel. Residents' gardens consist of acres of land filled with organic herbs, orchards and olive trees. Colorful signs lead the driver to Klil's attractions, among them a goat cheese shop, a bakery and a few cafes, a soap and honey maker, and jewelry, glassworks and ceramic shops. Just watch out for the wild boars (don't worry, they don't attack humans, only agriculture); I almost ran over a pack late at night on the dirt road.
Klil, located 14km east of Nahariya was built as an ecological settlement in 1978. It started out with seven seed families and grew to accommodate some 100 families today. Dr. Irit Schreier, the head of the Klil community council, explained the principles behind the community in the wilderness.
'We call it an agro-ecological model of settlement that combines three elements: First is organic agriculture - it's forbidden to grow non-organic agriculture. The second is sustainable orchards - growing trees with simple methods that maintain ecological balance. The third is developing the wild greenery of the region.'
The residents try to use only natural sources of energy. Every home has solar electricity panels, but residents soon found that solar panels are not always enough, so they are backed up by generators.
There is a sense of refined beauty in Klil and it is a unique and quirky alternative to the more predictable resorts in the Golan and along the Kinneret. The residents are hospitable, and several Klil families have built tzimmers on their land to host out-of-towners. Here are some highlights, but don't worry about the GPS: part of the fun is getting lost and exploring on your own.
FOOD
Brunch at Smadar BeClil comes recommended if you're looking for delicious vegetarian food and friendly hospitality. Smadar and Yossi Yardeni, among Klil's first residents, converted the family's first home into a restaurant furnished with handcrafted wooden furniture both indoors and out. While cutting up organic vegetables from the kitchen, Yardeni explained the reason for her move from Jerusalem, where she was a student at the Bezalel School of Art.
'We decided our future needed more space; we wanted land,' says Yardeni. 'We loved the virgin nature of Klil; you can preserve it.' To realize the Klil dream, they bought land from Druse living in Galilee and started out in a tent: 'We were very self-sufficient; we grew vegetables, herded goats.'
They closed down their own organic goat-cheese dairy about six years ago, and Yardeni, now 50-years-old, considers managing her restaurant and two tzimmers as her form of retirement in comparison. The love she puts into her work is evident in the brunch, consisting of fluffy herb omelets, a plate of delicious goat cheese (including some from Klil's own cheesemaker), a platter of vegetables topped with Yardeni's own olive oil and fresh mint lemonade. (Don't miss her homemade guava jam.) For lunch and dinner she offers salads, sandwiches and homemade pastas.
Further along the rocky road is Cafe B'Clil, a well-kept camping ground with its own cafe for those who don't need the comforts - and expense - of a tzimmer. Camping tents go for NIS 80 per person (NIS 60 for children) and they come with mattresses only. The founder is Tamar Schoer, a former art teacher and veteran resident of Klil.
I visited the shanty cafe as the cooks were preparing for the Thursday night crowd. Open to the public only on weekends, the cafe is reminiscent of the cushioned-lined restaurant huts in Sinai, minus the desert, water and Beduin. The conditions may be simple, but the olive trees, avocado trees, white tents, and lots of green that surrounds Cafe B'Clil make this place exceptional.
Smadar BeClil: 04-956-1678; http://www.ohalimretreats.com/cafe_clil.htm
Cafe B'Clil: (04) 996-9432; 052-326-1898
CRAFTS
Craftsman and artists have made Klil their home for the inspiration and solitude the surroundings provide. For ceramist Yael Shemer, the electricity shortage has actually sparked a new way of working.
Moving to Klil ten years ago has forced Shemer to fire up her clay using a method she never thought she would implement when she learned ceramics as a Bezalel student: gas ovens. Electric solar panels were simply not strong enough for her to power the more widely used electric oven. Shemer has found that she prefers this method. The oxidation of the gas oven renders unpredictable, unique color streaks in her ceramic jugs, plates and mugs.
Inside her garage-like studio, her shelves are filled with dozens of literally half-baked works. As a result of the energy shortage at Klil, Shemer fires the oven only about three times a month, and the ceramics require several rounds in the oven.
Luckily for newer Klil resident Reut Keret, electricity isn't required for her work. She sells her own handcrafted jewelry from a little corner in the small house she shares with her husband. She named her small boutique 'Sundri', which means 'pretty woman' in Hindi since her jewelry is made using gemstones imported from India. She crafts jewelry using a method that requires minimal tools - and no electricity outlets. While her selection of jewelry is rather small, she sells striking gems that follow the length of the ear lobe.
Yael Shemer: (04) 980-4571; Sundri: 050-634-3114
ENTERTAINMENT
Ada Moril of Diane and Ada, a folk music duo popular on the folk and world-music circuit, has made her home in Klil for the past 30 years ago. When I stopped by her 'Yellow House,' as it is officially called, she and her family were in the middle of separating olives from the branches to make their own olive oil.
Sitting under an ancient olive tree, the Canadian-Israeli explained in native English how she moved to Klil to find a quiet place in nature focused on ecological living. 'Already in Canada I knew I wanted to live in the country, in the hills overlooking the sea.' She has fulfilled her dream: It was a clear day and the coast of Nahariya shone cobalt blue.
In her living room Moril hosts her own concerts as well as those of other folk acts. From her home she also leads groups on herb trails, explaining the culinary and medicinal properties of herbs that grow wild in the Klil hills.
www.diane-ada.com; www.clil.net/ada Tel: 04-996-9540
A BOON IN THE BOONDOCKS
If Klil feels like it's located at the end of the earth, then B'vadi Etzel Ayali's is at the farthest end. It takes a few turns on thin dirt roads to reach one of its two mountain cabins, built on stilts, but once you do, there are nothing but mountainous forests of mint green and gray-hued lavender to distract you. You can feel like you are the only two people who exist on earth, so be sure to come with someone you really, really like.
The cabin I stayed in was designed in wood and warm, reddish tones, but clearly the best part about the tzimmer was the view from the patio, smartly situated with its back to the rest of Klil. The only sign of life in the forests was a rundown crusader fortress located at Kibbutz Yehiam at the peak of a far hill. In the winter, water flows through Nahal Yehiam below, and the Jewish National Fund has carved out a hiking trail along it.
The cabin includes a lounge area, a fully stocked kitchen, and a small hot tub room adjacent to the bedroom. But you might have to ruin your private moment and tell the owner, Esti Ayali, when you want to use the hot tub; she needs to turn on the electricity generator to generate the bubbles. Esti and her husband, Yoav, live next door in their home and they're always available on their cell-phone (when you catch a line!) to cater to the guests' needs.
Blame it on the electricity solar panels, but lamps don't shine too brightly inside, adding to the intimate and romantic setting. There is no television - fortunately - but a stereo system with a small music selection. This trip's most relaxing moment came when this writer popped in one of their Mozart CDs and dropped on the queen size bed to the sounds of birds chirping in the carob trees.
NIS 1,500 per couple for two nights, including breakfast, on weekends; weekday discounts available.
Tel: 050-379-4661; www.eyali.co.il
Friday, November 30, 2007
Cooking up a storm
Jerusalem Post, Billboard; November 30, 2007
One has to wonder what the Jerusalem Municipality was thinking when, as a tribute to 40 years of a united Jerusalem, it pitted top chefs from Tel Aviv against chefs from Jerusalem in a gourmet cooking competition.
At the risk of sounding unfaithful to the city I live in, I could understand a contest between the metropolis and the capital for the best rugelach, the best Jewish art, the best rabbis - but the best gourmet meal?
Anyone conversant with in the Israeli culinary scene could easily have predicted the winner even before the contest began. Jerusalem may be the capital of Israel, but Tel Aviv is the capital of Israel's restaurant industry. While many talented chefs were born and raised in Jerusalem, those seeking a career in the kitchen eventually moved to the big city, like Aviv Moshe of Messa and Rafi Cohen of Raphael, where the cosmopolitan cooking culture pushes them to international standards of excellence.
But if the event was meant to promote the last weekend of the Hamshushalayim festival, during which cultural institutions are open to the public free of charge and local restaurants offer special menus, the competition was well done. The conference hall of the Inbal Hotel, where the event was held on Monday, was packed with city officials, journalists and press photographers vying for a glimpse - and perhaps a bite - of the two four-course meals inspired by the holy city.
"We are sure Jerusalem will win," said Tal Marom Malovec, spokesperson of the tourism and culture unit of the Jerusalem Municipality, ahead of the competition. "They worked a full week on the menus, the plan. They'll give Tel Aviv a fight."
But Jerusalem set itself up for defeat when it invited Meir Adoni, chef of the acclaimed Catit restaurant, to be part of the Tel Aviv team, along with Shaul Ben-Aderet of Kimel, Chef Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli, and Chef Hadassa Wolf of Comme Il Faut. Catit was recently voted by readers of Time Out magazine as the best restaurant in Tel Aviv, and a few weeks before that, Adoni became an instant national chef celebrity when he was the first of four Israeli chefs (including Aviv Moshe) to beat out French chef Stephane Froidevaux in Channel 10's cooking showdown "Battle of the Knives."
Despite Adoni's fondness for Jerusalem, which he developed as a chef under famed chef Ezra Kedem of Jerusalem's Arcadia restaurant and as a boy growing up in a Zionist household, he wasn't about to cook with mercy. "It looks bad [if Tel Aviv wins], but we'll still win, even if it's by half a point," Adoni forecast ahead of the cook- off.
But the competition was digested in good fun by both teams. The atmosphere in the large kitchen of the Inbal was lively, optimistic and friendly, with chefs from each team encouraging each other and Adoni leading his team in old Jerusalem folk songs.
"There's no pressure, we're cooking in good spirits," said chef Itzik Mizrahi, head chef of the Inbal Hotel and its Sofia restaurant, the official caterer of the president. He headed the Jerusalem team consisting of chef Marcus Gershkovitz of Canela, chef Motti Zigron of La Carossa, chef Guy Ben-Simhon of La Guta and chef Dafna Baruch of Pituyim.
He was in charge of the Jerusalem entree, consisting of lamb chops on a bed of root vegetables. "We want to show that Jerusalem is about more than just humous and ktzitzot [meatballs]."
Both teams prepared their dishes using raw materials endemic to Jerusalem, including Jerusalem artichoke, chickpeas, root vegetables, sesame, wheat, beets and za'atar.
Ben-Simhon prepared his team's starting dish, a gourmet rendition of me'urav yerushalmi, a popular Jerusalem street food consisting of a mix of grilled meats usually served in pita. He served the meat inside bone marrow on a bed of spicy chickpeas. While plating the dish in a tin pan set on Jerusalem stone garnished by olives and olive leaves, he expressed his confidence. "It's always fun to win, especially against another city, and I think we'll win. If not, a tie is also good."
The courses were served to the three judges on the dais: television cooking personality chef Haim Cohen, host of TV show Garlic, Pepper and Olive Oil; cookbook author and food writer Phyllis Glazer; and actress Sarit Vino- Elad.
Dishes were served unmarked, but both Cohen and Glazer admitted to In Jerusalem that they could recognize the creators by the mere presentation.
"From the first dish, I felt who was Jerusalem and who was Tel Aviv - the taste, the presentation, the plating," said Cohen.
"From what I've seen of Tel Aviv," added Glazer, "it's not so much the plating, but the taste. They're more sophisticated, use a range of ingredients and are more delicate."
The final overall score came out to 135:150, Tel Aviv.
Simhon got his "tie" with Adoni, who served sashimi on a bed of chickpeas - quite a feat (unless there were mercy points).
Dafna Baruch beat Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli in Tel Aviv for best dessert with her scrumptious sesame pastry filled with halva cream, garnished with brandied figs.
But the winning entree, "A Jerusalem Winter Stewpot," concocted by Shaul Ben-Aderet, went hands down to Tel Aviv (literally, after the journalists couldn't stop themselves from dipping their fingers into the large pot in the kitchen). The homey stew artfully and deliciously reflected the authentic Jerusalem kitchen, with lamb, beef cheek and tongue, cooked wheat, stuffed artichoke and cinnamon and paprika spicing.
"This is the Jerusalem dish," said Cohen of the stewpot. "It comes from here. Lamb chops don't come from here."
The winning recipes were served to President Shimon Peres on Thursday. Upon accepting the Medallion of Honor on behalf of Tel Aviv, Adoni generously announced to the city of Jerusalem, "It's yours!"
One has to wonder what the Jerusalem Municipality was thinking when, as a tribute to 40 years of a united Jerusalem, it pitted top chefs from Tel Aviv against chefs from Jerusalem in a gourmet cooking competition.
At the risk of sounding unfaithful to the city I live in, I could understand a contest between the metropolis and the capital for the best rugelach, the best Jewish art, the best rabbis - but the best gourmet meal?
Anyone conversant with in the Israeli culinary scene could easily have predicted the winner even before the contest began. Jerusalem may be the capital of Israel, but Tel Aviv is the capital of Israel's restaurant industry. While many talented chefs were born and raised in Jerusalem, those seeking a career in the kitchen eventually moved to the big city, like Aviv Moshe of Messa and Rafi Cohen of Raphael, where the cosmopolitan cooking culture pushes them to international standards of excellence.
But if the event was meant to promote the last weekend of the Hamshushalayim festival, during which cultural institutions are open to the public free of charge and local restaurants offer special menus, the competition was well done. The conference hall of the Inbal Hotel, where the event was held on Monday, was packed with city officials, journalists and press photographers vying for a glimpse - and perhaps a bite - of the two four-course meals inspired by the holy city.
"We are sure Jerusalem will win," said Tal Marom Malovec, spokesperson of the tourism and culture unit of the Jerusalem Municipality, ahead of the competition. "They worked a full week on the menus, the plan. They'll give Tel Aviv a fight."
But Jerusalem set itself up for defeat when it invited Meir Adoni, chef of the acclaimed Catit restaurant, to be part of the Tel Aviv team, along with Shaul Ben-Aderet of Kimel, Chef Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli, and Chef Hadassa Wolf of Comme Il Faut. Catit was recently voted by readers of Time Out magazine as the best restaurant in Tel Aviv, and a few weeks before that, Adoni became an instant national chef celebrity when he was the first of four Israeli chefs (including Aviv Moshe) to beat out French chef Stephane Froidevaux in Channel 10's cooking showdown "Battle of the Knives."
Despite Adoni's fondness for Jerusalem, which he developed as a chef under famed chef Ezra Kedem of Jerusalem's Arcadia restaurant and as a boy growing up in a Zionist household, he wasn't about to cook with mercy. "It looks bad [if Tel Aviv wins], but we'll still win, even if it's by half a point," Adoni forecast ahead of the cook- off.
But the competition was digested in good fun by both teams. The atmosphere in the large kitchen of the Inbal was lively, optimistic and friendly, with chefs from each team encouraging each other and Adoni leading his team in old Jerusalem folk songs.
"There's no pressure, we're cooking in good spirits," said chef Itzik Mizrahi, head chef of the Inbal Hotel and its Sofia restaurant, the official caterer of the president. He headed the Jerusalem team consisting of chef Marcus Gershkovitz of Canela, chef Motti Zigron of La Carossa, chef Guy Ben-Simhon of La Guta and chef Dafna Baruch of Pituyim.
He was in charge of the Jerusalem entree, consisting of lamb chops on a bed of root vegetables. "We want to show that Jerusalem is about more than just humous and ktzitzot [meatballs]."
Both teams prepared their dishes using raw materials endemic to Jerusalem, including Jerusalem artichoke, chickpeas, root vegetables, sesame, wheat, beets and za'atar.
Ben-Simhon prepared his team's starting dish, a gourmet rendition of me'urav yerushalmi, a popular Jerusalem street food consisting of a mix of grilled meats usually served in pita. He served the meat inside bone marrow on a bed of spicy chickpeas. While plating the dish in a tin pan set on Jerusalem stone garnished by olives and olive leaves, he expressed his confidence. "It's always fun to win, especially against another city, and I think we'll win. If not, a tie is also good."
The courses were served to the three judges on the dais: television cooking personality chef Haim Cohen, host of TV show Garlic, Pepper and Olive Oil; cookbook author and food writer Phyllis Glazer; and actress Sarit Vino- Elad.
Dishes were served unmarked, but both Cohen and Glazer admitted to In Jerusalem that they could recognize the creators by the mere presentation.
"From the first dish, I felt who was Jerusalem and who was Tel Aviv - the taste, the presentation, the plating," said Cohen.
"From what I've seen of Tel Aviv," added Glazer, "it's not so much the plating, but the taste. They're more sophisticated, use a range of ingredients and are more delicate."
The final overall score came out to 135:150, Tel Aviv.
Simhon got his "tie" with Adoni, who served sashimi on a bed of chickpeas - quite a feat (unless there were mercy points).
Dafna Baruch beat Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli in Tel Aviv for best dessert with her scrumptious sesame pastry filled with halva cream, garnished with brandied figs.
But the winning entree, "A Jerusalem Winter Stewpot," concocted by Shaul Ben-Aderet, went hands down to Tel Aviv (literally, after the journalists couldn't stop themselves from dipping their fingers into the large pot in the kitchen). The homey stew artfully and deliciously reflected the authentic Jerusalem kitchen, with lamb, beef cheek and tongue, cooked wheat, stuffed artichoke and cinnamon and paprika spicing.
"This is the Jerusalem dish," said Cohen of the stewpot. "It comes from here. Lamb chops don't come from here."
The winning recipes were served to President Shimon Peres on Thursday. Upon accepting the Medallion of Honor on behalf of Tel Aviv, Adoni generously announced to the city of Jerusalem, "It's yours!"
For those who are 'not all there' (dance bar review)
Jerusalem Post, Billboard; November 30, 2007
Mental has made a name for itself as the hottest dance bar in Tel Aviv, but it didn't look like it when we arrived at 11 p.m. on Thursday, the prime clubbing hour of the week. There was no line at the door, and a lot of empty bar stools. But like all Tel Aviv hotspots, Mental did get more 'happening' closer to 1 a.m. In this it resembles the Breakfast Club and Dada - underground dance bars that emphasize cutting-edge electronic music and after-hours nightlife.
Mental, already eight months old, is appropriately named because people are inclined to go crazy there, what with the alcohol and electronic music. Just before rush hour, however, the impression isn't particularly spectacular. Mental is not about overblown glam, but dark, minimalist style.
I anticipated a righteous coolness; sometimes the vibe of underground dance bars can be snobby. So when a very good-looking guy in a sweaty T-shirt cheerfully greeted us from behind the bar and introduced himself as the owner, I expressed surprise at his friendliness. Owners of such digs are often stuck-up.
'Not us,' he said.
My New York friend and I asked for a menu from the bartender, who looked like a skinhead, complete with a mean demeanor and tattoos all over his arms, including one of a cross. The skinhead supported my original thesis. To our menu request, he grunted: 'Not here.'
Okay, no menus. We asked him to recommend a cocktail. He looked at us as if we were aliens. Fortunately, a different bartender - friendly, down-to-earth and with curly blond hair - took over.
'Don't you recommend drinks here?' I asked.
'Not here. People who come here generally know what they want,' he said simply, without making us feel like dummies. At Mental, people want the hard, simple mixes; girly cocktails like apple martinis and cosmos are not their specialties. Tonic water, however, is. The sweet bartender accidentally knocked a bottle in our direction, spilling some on my friend's pants. He apologized.
Hoping that the music would compensate for the wet pants, my friend committed the faux pas of asking if the DJ would spin pop music.
'Not here.'
Of course.
On weekends, Mental is clearly the place for electronic music fans, although Tuesday night is dedicated to other genres, including pop and Israeli music.
As the classic rock warm-up turned into Mental's signature electro music, we forgot about the spilt drink and our pop dreams. The powerful, balanced sound system did justice to the creative yet fun-loving beats that got us onto the floor to dance and flirt. Unfortunately, some of the other dancers seemed somewhat high on themselves (and probably on other substances as well).
Before leaving, we thought it was time to test the owner's sincerity. We told him about the spilt drink, explaining that it called for more than just a sweet apology.
'Not here,' he replied.
Actually, it didn't seem like he was all there, either. And neither were we. He reluctantly offered us vodka chasers as compensation, and after finishing them off, we went to finish off the night at Griffin - the mega- bar a few blocks down which offers menus, cocktails, pop music, and a little more approachability.
Party line-up: Sunday is for the Tel Aviv working man; Monday sees live bands; Tuesday brings pop and electronic freestyle; Wednesday features special guest DJs; on weekends, expect electronic freestyle.
Mental; 7 Shadal St.; tel. (054) 542-9989.
Mental has made a name for itself as the hottest dance bar in Tel Aviv, but it didn't look like it when we arrived at 11 p.m. on Thursday, the prime clubbing hour of the week. There was no line at the door, and a lot of empty bar stools. But like all Tel Aviv hotspots, Mental did get more 'happening' closer to 1 a.m. In this it resembles the Breakfast Club and Dada - underground dance bars that emphasize cutting-edge electronic music and after-hours nightlife.
Mental, already eight months old, is appropriately named because people are inclined to go crazy there, what with the alcohol and electronic music. Just before rush hour, however, the impression isn't particularly spectacular. Mental is not about overblown glam, but dark, minimalist style.
I anticipated a righteous coolness; sometimes the vibe of underground dance bars can be snobby. So when a very good-looking guy in a sweaty T-shirt cheerfully greeted us from behind the bar and introduced himself as the owner, I expressed surprise at his friendliness. Owners of such digs are often stuck-up.
'Not us,' he said.
My New York friend and I asked for a menu from the bartender, who looked like a skinhead, complete with a mean demeanor and tattoos all over his arms, including one of a cross. The skinhead supported my original thesis. To our menu request, he grunted: 'Not here.'
Okay, no menus. We asked him to recommend a cocktail. He looked at us as if we were aliens. Fortunately, a different bartender - friendly, down-to-earth and with curly blond hair - took over.
'Don't you recommend drinks here?' I asked.
'Not here. People who come here generally know what they want,' he said simply, without making us feel like dummies. At Mental, people want the hard, simple mixes; girly cocktails like apple martinis and cosmos are not their specialties. Tonic water, however, is. The sweet bartender accidentally knocked a bottle in our direction, spilling some on my friend's pants. He apologized.
Hoping that the music would compensate for the wet pants, my friend committed the faux pas of asking if the DJ would spin pop music.
'Not here.'
Of course.
On weekends, Mental is clearly the place for electronic music fans, although Tuesday night is dedicated to other genres, including pop and Israeli music.
As the classic rock warm-up turned into Mental's signature electro music, we forgot about the spilt drink and our pop dreams. The powerful, balanced sound system did justice to the creative yet fun-loving beats that got us onto the floor to dance and flirt. Unfortunately, some of the other dancers seemed somewhat high on themselves (and probably on other substances as well).
Before leaving, we thought it was time to test the owner's sincerity. We told him about the spilt drink, explaining that it called for more than just a sweet apology.
'Not here,' he replied.
Actually, it didn't seem like he was all there, either. And neither were we. He reluctantly offered us vodka chasers as compensation, and after finishing them off, we went to finish off the night at Griffin - the mega- bar a few blocks down which offers menus, cocktails, pop music, and a little more approachability.
Party line-up: Sunday is for the Tel Aviv working man; Monday sees live bands; Tuesday brings pop and electronic freestyle; Wednesday features special guest DJs; on weekends, expect electronic freestyle.
Mental; 7 Shadal St.; tel. (054) 542-9989.
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Fat chance (restaurant review)
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; November 22, 2007
If you're looking for more than a few drinks on plastic chairs, the Gordo restobar could be the spot for you on Tel Aviv's promenade.
Warning: Those who settle on the deck of Gordo for a sunset dinner may not want to leave until the early hours. I don't know of any other restaurant on the Tel Aviv promenade that hands out blankets with a smile so that diners can cozy up under the tall metal heat lamps when it gets chilly.
Located right off the boardwalk underneath the Renaissance Hotel on Gordon beach, Gordo is exactly what the folksy Tel Aviv promenade needs to achieve a more stylish, sophisticated edge.
The handsome eatery is spread out on a multi-leveled patio, designed so that each seating corner gets a view of the water. Gordo is both child and animal friendly. Lounging around me on the cushioned sofas and chairs for Friday night dinner were lone couples, a small family with its dog, and what seemed to be a large tourist group. The tropic outdoor bar leads to the entrance of a plush dance lounge that's ideal for singles seeking a mix of drinks, dancing and romance.
In building the two-month-old Gordo (which means "fat" in Spanish), Ronen Avni, one of the five owners, stated that their goal was design, food, service and quality. So far, they have lived up to their aims. While the owners' specialty is nightlife - they have founded some of the city's most successful bars: Blend, The Lobby and Golden Bar - they have passed over to restaurants quite well. No detail here is spared, from the coasters featuring the image of "Gordo" (an animated rotund man), to the soft, pastel upholstery, to the garnish on the dishes.
We started out with an eggplant carpaccio (NIS 28) from Gordo's temporary menu, which for now includes a limited but respectable selection of appetizers, salads, seafood, meat dishes and kids' meals. The creative and aesthetic round dish was a light and scrumptious starter, consisting of soft, grilled eggplant topped with balsamic vinegar and feta. It formed an ideal vegetarian alternative to the beef carpaccio (also on the menu). The Greek salad we also ordered was rather plain, consisting chunks of cucumbers and tomatoes, but salads are not their prominent dishes, the fish and seafood are.
The quality of the raw materials was tangible in their finger- licking, firm spicy shrimp flavored with chili, tomatoes and thin garlic wedges (NIS 48/84).
The sea bass (NIS 94), that was served whole and extremely fresh, was one of the best fish dishes I've eaten in a while. It was tender and stuffed with roasted garlic cloves whose jam added depth of delicious flavor to the fish and accompanying Chinese bok choy. The roasted potatoes and bread were rather basic.
Once the sun set, the only illumination came from yellow Christmas lights wrapped around the patio umbrellas. The smile of the gracious waiter, who pledged at the beginning of the evening that our satisfaction was his goal and was good to his word, also helped to brighten the evening.
The desserts were not as unique or impressive as the previous dishes. The malabi had a nice milky texture and flavor, topped with pink rose water and nuts. The creme brulee (NIS 34), torched right behind the bar, should satisfy fans of the dish.
However, I regret not opting for the whiskey chocolate cubes.
Too bad Gordo just missed summer. The Mediterranean dishes and atmosphere are perfect for summer heat. Yet the owners plan to install glass enclosures to make it a hot spot for winter. Given their apparent standards of excellence, I wouldn't be surprised if they perfected the menu and finishing touches to usher in the new season.
Gordo, Gordon Beach, Open from 9 a.m.; Tel: (03) 529- 3929. Not kosher.
If you're looking for more than a few drinks on plastic chairs, the Gordo restobar could be the spot for you on Tel Aviv's promenade.
Warning: Those who settle on the deck of Gordo for a sunset dinner may not want to leave until the early hours. I don't know of any other restaurant on the Tel Aviv promenade that hands out blankets with a smile so that diners can cozy up under the tall metal heat lamps when it gets chilly.
Located right off the boardwalk underneath the Renaissance Hotel on Gordon beach, Gordo is exactly what the folksy Tel Aviv promenade needs to achieve a more stylish, sophisticated edge.
The handsome eatery is spread out on a multi-leveled patio, designed so that each seating corner gets a view of the water. Gordo is both child and animal friendly. Lounging around me on the cushioned sofas and chairs for Friday night dinner were lone couples, a small family with its dog, and what seemed to be a large tourist group. The tropic outdoor bar leads to the entrance of a plush dance lounge that's ideal for singles seeking a mix of drinks, dancing and romance.
In building the two-month-old Gordo (which means "fat" in Spanish), Ronen Avni, one of the five owners, stated that their goal was design, food, service and quality. So far, they have lived up to their aims. While the owners' specialty is nightlife - they have founded some of the city's most successful bars: Blend, The Lobby and Golden Bar - they have passed over to restaurants quite well. No detail here is spared, from the coasters featuring the image of "Gordo" (an animated rotund man), to the soft, pastel upholstery, to the garnish on the dishes.
We started out with an eggplant carpaccio (NIS 28) from Gordo's temporary menu, which for now includes a limited but respectable selection of appetizers, salads, seafood, meat dishes and kids' meals. The creative and aesthetic round dish was a light and scrumptious starter, consisting of soft, grilled eggplant topped with balsamic vinegar and feta. It formed an ideal vegetarian alternative to the beef carpaccio (also on the menu). The Greek salad we also ordered was rather plain, consisting chunks of cucumbers and tomatoes, but salads are not their prominent dishes, the fish and seafood are.
The quality of the raw materials was tangible in their finger- licking, firm spicy shrimp flavored with chili, tomatoes and thin garlic wedges (NIS 48/84).
The sea bass (NIS 94), that was served whole and extremely fresh, was one of the best fish dishes I've eaten in a while. It was tender and stuffed with roasted garlic cloves whose jam added depth of delicious flavor to the fish and accompanying Chinese bok choy. The roasted potatoes and bread were rather basic.
Once the sun set, the only illumination came from yellow Christmas lights wrapped around the patio umbrellas. The smile of the gracious waiter, who pledged at the beginning of the evening that our satisfaction was his goal and was good to his word, also helped to brighten the evening.
The desserts were not as unique or impressive as the previous dishes. The malabi had a nice milky texture and flavor, topped with pink rose water and nuts. The creme brulee (NIS 34), torched right behind the bar, should satisfy fans of the dish.
However, I regret not opting for the whiskey chocolate cubes.
Too bad Gordo just missed summer. The Mediterranean dishes and atmosphere are perfect for summer heat. Yet the owners plan to install glass enclosures to make it a hot spot for winter. Given their apparent standards of excellence, I wouldn't be surprised if they perfected the menu and finishing touches to usher in the new season.
Gordo, Gordon Beach, Open from 9 a.m.; Tel: (03) 529- 3929. Not kosher.
Monday, November 12, 2007
Britney Spears' Blackout (disc review)
Jerusalem Post, Daily; November 12, 2007
BRITNEY SPEARS
Blackout
(RCA)
In 2002 Britney Spears sang to the world through a piano-backed ballad: 'I'm not yet a girl, not yet a woman.' Since then she has proved that she is more than a woman. The tabloids have relentlessly followed her ill-fated transformation to a wife (and a half), a mother, and a divorcee. Her latest and fifth studio album, Blackout, her 'comeback' album, communicates no motherly instincts, even as she vies for custody of her two boys, and judging from the sound and lyrics, Britney Spears is in more heat than ever.
Blackout is Spears' most strident deviation from her starry-eyed ballads and jumpy pop songs. Those who miss the fun-loving, teen-bop beats of 'Hit Me Baby One More Time' or 'Oops I Did it Again,' are advised to proceed with caution. Many songs on Blackout are not easily sing-able. Acoustic instruments are difficult to make out in the techno-tinged, synch-heavy songs, rendering them difficult for easy listening but ideal for pumping-and-grinding on the dance floor.
The album is replete with proud proclamations about her raunchy, seductive, freakish ways, indicating that she has no plans to end the lewd partying that has triggered the paparazzi maelstrom.
On the one hand, she hits back at the tabloids in 'Piece of Me' with lyrics like 'And with a kid on my arm/ I'm still an exception, and everybody/Want a piece of me.' Yet four songs later in 'Get Naked (I Got a Plan)' she's singing: 'My body is calling out for you bad boy/I get the feeling that I just want to be with ya/Baby, I'm a freak and I don't really give a damn/I'm crazy as a mother f***r.'
The first song, 'Gimme More', introduces the album with an assertive: 'It's Britney Bitch,' to signify her arrival. But anyone who saw her overly-lambasted performance of 'Gimme More' on the 2007 MTV Video Music Awards will remember how she arrived: stumbling and punch drunk. That performance aside, however, 'Gimme More' is a masterfully produced, upbeat dance song, and reached the top of the charts and number one on iTunes.
So if Spears hasn't necessarily arrived, then her producers definitely have. Modern beatmaster, Danja, the acclaimed protege of hip-hop producer Timbaland, who has churned out hits for Nelly Fertado and Justin Timberlake, is responsible for some of the most successful songs on the album, including 'Gimme More' and 'Hot as Ice', a fun and coy tune backed by whizzing hooks and punchy lyrics. The duo Bloodshy & Avant of 'Toxic' fame proves its knack for sultry beats and original electronic riffs with 'Radar.' Their 'Toy Soldiers' is a dizzying electronic march to Spears' cry directed at - who else? - ex-husband Keven Federline: 'This time I need a soldier/ a really badass soldier/ that knows how to take care of me/ I'm so damn glad that's over.'
It's difficult to say if Blackout will mark Spears' comeback because she's hardly present in the album, despite the autobiographical nature of some lyrics, not her own. She's more the canvas for the producers to showcase their mastery of rhythm and electronica. Her voice is heavily processed through vocoders and filters, making it another instrument - albeit an effective, seductive one.
Given all of Spears' personal problems, it rather sounds like, when making the album, she took a back seat in the studio, tilted her hat over her wig, and said, before blacking out: 'I partied too much last night and have a court case tomorrow. Wake me up when you need me to record.'
In fact, in a strange, inarticulate and brief interview with Ryan Seacrest on Los Angeles' KIIS FM, Seacrest asked her about the opening line, 'It's Britney Bitch', to which she replied: 'The producer told me to say thatÉ.whatever, you know.'
Success may depend on how well Spears sells the songs with knock-out (rather than knocked-out or knocked-up) performances and videos.
Spears is as much about choreographed image as she is about the music, and she can't rely forever on Britney voyeurs and crazed fans who can't get enough of her no matter what she does. It would be a shame if her new songs, which include potential hits, are wasted with clumsy performances, pointless pole- dancing, and just plain deranged womanhood.
BRITNEY SPEARS
Blackout
(RCA)
In 2002 Britney Spears sang to the world through a piano-backed ballad: 'I'm not yet a girl, not yet a woman.' Since then she has proved that she is more than a woman. The tabloids have relentlessly followed her ill-fated transformation to a wife (and a half), a mother, and a divorcee. Her latest and fifth studio album, Blackout, her 'comeback' album, communicates no motherly instincts, even as she vies for custody of her two boys, and judging from the sound and lyrics, Britney Spears is in more heat than ever.
Blackout is Spears' most strident deviation from her starry-eyed ballads and jumpy pop songs. Those who miss the fun-loving, teen-bop beats of 'Hit Me Baby One More Time' or 'Oops I Did it Again,' are advised to proceed with caution. Many songs on Blackout are not easily sing-able. Acoustic instruments are difficult to make out in the techno-tinged, synch-heavy songs, rendering them difficult for easy listening but ideal for pumping-and-grinding on the dance floor.
The album is replete with proud proclamations about her raunchy, seductive, freakish ways, indicating that she has no plans to end the lewd partying that has triggered the paparazzi maelstrom.
On the one hand, she hits back at the tabloids in 'Piece of Me' with lyrics like 'And with a kid on my arm/ I'm still an exception, and everybody/Want a piece of me.' Yet four songs later in 'Get Naked (I Got a Plan)' she's singing: 'My body is calling out for you bad boy/I get the feeling that I just want to be with ya/Baby, I'm a freak and I don't really give a damn/I'm crazy as a mother f***r.'
The first song, 'Gimme More', introduces the album with an assertive: 'It's Britney Bitch,' to signify her arrival. But anyone who saw her overly-lambasted performance of 'Gimme More' on the 2007 MTV Video Music Awards will remember how she arrived: stumbling and punch drunk. That performance aside, however, 'Gimme More' is a masterfully produced, upbeat dance song, and reached the top of the charts and number one on iTunes.
So if Spears hasn't necessarily arrived, then her producers definitely have. Modern beatmaster, Danja, the acclaimed protege of hip-hop producer Timbaland, who has churned out hits for Nelly Fertado and Justin Timberlake, is responsible for some of the most successful songs on the album, including 'Gimme More' and 'Hot as Ice', a fun and coy tune backed by whizzing hooks and punchy lyrics. The duo Bloodshy & Avant of 'Toxic' fame proves its knack for sultry beats and original electronic riffs with 'Radar.' Their 'Toy Soldiers' is a dizzying electronic march to Spears' cry directed at - who else? - ex-husband Keven Federline: 'This time I need a soldier/ a really badass soldier/ that knows how to take care of me/ I'm so damn glad that's over.'
It's difficult to say if Blackout will mark Spears' comeback because she's hardly present in the album, despite the autobiographical nature of some lyrics, not her own. She's more the canvas for the producers to showcase their mastery of rhythm and electronica. Her voice is heavily processed through vocoders and filters, making it another instrument - albeit an effective, seductive one.
Given all of Spears' personal problems, it rather sounds like, when making the album, she took a back seat in the studio, tilted her hat over her wig, and said, before blacking out: 'I partied too much last night and have a court case tomorrow. Wake me up when you need me to record.'
In fact, in a strange, inarticulate and brief interview with Ryan Seacrest on Los Angeles' KIIS FM, Seacrest asked her about the opening line, 'It's Britney Bitch', to which she replied: 'The producer told me to say thatÉ.whatever, you know.'
Success may depend on how well Spears sells the songs with knock-out (rather than knocked-out or knocked-up) performances and videos.
Spears is as much about choreographed image as she is about the music, and she can't rely forever on Britney voyeurs and crazed fans who can't get enough of her no matter what she does. It would be a shame if her new songs, which include potential hits, are wasted with clumsy performances, pointless pole- dancing, and just plain deranged womanhood.
Friday, November 9, 2007
Gotham in Jerusalem (dance bar review)
Jerusalem Post, Billboard; November 9, 2007
Click here for original
A new capital dance bar delivers the underground vibe of its Tel Aviv inspiration
Gotham is best described as the capital's version of The Breakfast Club, one of Tel Aviv's pioneering, underground dance bars. Any Jerusalem imitation deserves a reluctant welcome. Reluctant, because it's about time Jerusalem starts its own nightlife trends. Welcome, because Gotham is a pretty good knock-off with a distinctly Jerusalem touch.
Gotham has succeeded in importing the dark, underground vibe of its Tel Aviv role models, whose main draws are the DJs and their electronic music. Located in the center of town, it's guarded by bouncers meant to ensure a 25+ crowd. Gotham's interior weaves the Jerusalem stone walls with gothic and metallic themes. Wrapped (and warped) lightbulbs hang above the bar, and medieval-type metalwork and gargoyles add a Dark Age aura.
The ambitious yet successful design extends to the unisex bathroom, whose dark gray metallic fixtures look like something out of a Braque painting. Since The Breakfast Club is infamous for, err, unconventional activities in its stalls, Gotham's investment in the bathroom is understandable.
Gotham is destined for after-hours creatures. It only really begins to pick-up at 2 a.m. with synth and bass-heavy electronic music. On a recent Thursday night, the crowd was pretty grungy, and not necessarily 25+.
Gotham lacks a certain soft, feminine touch, which may have explained the higher male-to-female ratio, about 5:1. It was hard for my friend and me to focus on dancing while warding off advances from creepy men sorely lacking in a rich female selection.
Gotham has only been open for about two months, so it's hard to tell what kind of people it will attract in the long-run or how Jerusalemites will take to it. But for now the dance bar still fills a void in Jerusalem's underground nightlife scene. It just needs to fill up with a more attractive crowd to get to the more exclusive partying status of the more selective, hip Breakfast Club.
31 Jaffa Rd. (Feingold Courtyard, across from Adom restaurant); open Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Friday and Saturdays; 054-446-9711.
Click here for original
A new capital dance bar delivers the underground vibe of its Tel Aviv inspiration
Gotham is best described as the capital's version of The Breakfast Club, one of Tel Aviv's pioneering, underground dance bars. Any Jerusalem imitation deserves a reluctant welcome. Reluctant, because it's about time Jerusalem starts its own nightlife trends. Welcome, because Gotham is a pretty good knock-off with a distinctly Jerusalem touch.
Gotham has succeeded in importing the dark, underground vibe of its Tel Aviv role models, whose main draws are the DJs and their electronic music. Located in the center of town, it's guarded by bouncers meant to ensure a 25+ crowd. Gotham's interior weaves the Jerusalem stone walls with gothic and metallic themes. Wrapped (and warped) lightbulbs hang above the bar, and medieval-type metalwork and gargoyles add a Dark Age aura.
The ambitious yet successful design extends to the unisex bathroom, whose dark gray metallic fixtures look like something out of a Braque painting. Since The Breakfast Club is infamous for, err, unconventional activities in its stalls, Gotham's investment in the bathroom is understandable.
Gotham is destined for after-hours creatures. It only really begins to pick-up at 2 a.m. with synth and bass-heavy electronic music. On a recent Thursday night, the crowd was pretty grungy, and not necessarily 25+.
Gotham lacks a certain soft, feminine touch, which may have explained the higher male-to-female ratio, about 5:1. It was hard for my friend and me to focus on dancing while warding off advances from creepy men sorely lacking in a rich female selection.
Gotham has only been open for about two months, so it's hard to tell what kind of people it will attract in the long-run or how Jerusalemites will take to it. But for now the dance bar still fills a void in Jerusalem's underground nightlife scene. It just needs to fill up with a more attractive crowd to get to the more exclusive partying status of the more selective, hip Breakfast Club.
31 Jaffa Rd. (Feingold Courtyard, across from Adom restaurant); open Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Friday and Saturdays; 054-446-9711.
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