Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; January 3, 2008
Owners of guest houses in the Western Galilee often dispatch their guests to Adelina for dinner, and with good reason. Adelina is arguably one of the best restaurants in the region.
Converted from the former cultural clubhouse of the kibbutz, Adelina is nestled in a quiet corner overlooking the beach and the kibbutz soccer field. Adelina maintained the original, naturally attractive stone design of the clubhouse, but the handsomely set tables and fine cutlery make one feel as if it were designed as a restaurant from the outset.
Adelina is named after Adelina Goldfeld, the founding chef who immigrated from Argentia in 1973. A kibbutz resident since 1980, Goldfeld studied at the prestigious Cordon Bleu in France and under renowned Spanish chef Feran Adria. The menu fuses Catalonian and Galilean cuisine with successful results.
The theme of the food was perfectly expressed in the sangria fruit cocktail which kicked off my meal: sensual, colorful, exotic and tasty. Adelina's next Spanish offering was its signature "tapas journey" (NIS 115 for two), a cohesive platter of tapas, which in Spain refers to small, individual dishes usually served before a meal or with a drink. Usually I refrain from ordering tapas because I feel teased by the small helpings, but as soon as the eight tapas were spread out on the table, I knew I was in for a culinary ride. First I had to overcome my fear of ruining the resplendent display; it looked like a work of art.
The "tapas journey" artfully balanced meat, seafood, vegetables and cheeses. The beef carpaccio gave me an indication of the tapas's high standards. The balsamic glaze and parmesan slices opened the fresh flavor and great texture of the deep-red beef. The expertly peeled grilled pepper with feta and minced calamari olives, while simple, was finely prepared. The Druse-inspired beef pastry, crispy dough wrapped around spicy, moist ground beef, was a triumph of taste and texture.
Two dishes should have been marked as aphrodisiacs. The bittersweet chocolate truffles filled with luscious pate and the aubergine cream so smooth it could have passed for a buttery dessert. The only ill-fated dish was the salty anchovy, which I quickly washed down with some sangria.
After this, who has room for another appetizer? But I took a bite out of the creative, crisp kadaif shrimp, a jumbo shrimp wrapped in this Arabic-style pastry dough.
One hundred percent mango sorbet smoothly cleared my palate for the entree.
While there was a respectable selection of gourmet entrees, I opted for a classic dish, beef fillet in wine (NIS 121). Sometimes a restaurant's treatment of a classic dish is the best indication of its culinary prowess. At Adelina, this is certainly true. The beef was perfectly cooked "medium," its grill marks visible, and its gentle red wine sauce adding depth while preserving the superb taste of the beef. The creamy, buttery potato mash and broccoli sides were deliciously yet simply seasoned, topped with grilled tomatoes and fennel.
For dessert, the server laid out sleeker cutlery to mark a shift in gears. I opted for the tapas dessert (NIS 52), a platter of four mini-desserts including a mango lemon tart, homemade pistachio ice cream, knaffe fingers and lemon cheesecake. While each tasted good on its own, after such a glorious journey, I think one simple dessert would have been a more settling landing.
Adelina, Kibbutz Kabri;
(04) 952-3707. Not kosher.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Declining charm (restaurant review)
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; December 20, 2007
Aluma is located on a small street in Tarshiha, an Arab town on the outskirts of Kfar Havradim. For several years it has has been considered one of the most prestigious bistros in the Western Galilee, hosting some of the best chefs in Israel. However, during my recent trip to Western Galilee, my hosts at the guest houses did not recommend Aluma, as an option for dinner. I soon figured out why.
The interior of Aluma promised a pleasant dining experience. Its simple country French design was warm and inviting, but in no way ostentatious.
The food, however, proved adequate at best, certainly not as outstanding as I had expected - and hoped - it would be.
The meal was introduced with fresh homebaked bread served with a tasty olive spread, a punchy tomato spread (use sparingly!), and a fresh lentil dip. It took a downward turn with the "appetizer samples" (served only with the business lunch). The roasted eggplant, served on a bed of white beans, was much too bland. The veal carpaccio arrived buried under balsamic vinegar and arugula, and I couldn't help but wonder if it was an attempt to hide the rather oddly colored cuts of veal. The liver pate, served cold with grape jam and pistachio nuts, lay on a bed of hard shmaltz (chicken fat). The waiter assured me that the liver was supposed to be served like that, but the fat certainly clogged my enjoyment of the otherwise tasty pate. The perfectly crisp crab cakes, while flavored well, felt dry.
The transitional sorbet was not an effective amuse bouche; it was more like slush.
The meal segued into the rather pedestrian poulet stuffed with herbs, pistachio, raisins and dried tomatoes (NIS 78). The stuffing of the rather stingy portion had the aroma of packaged seasoning. But the vegetable side of steamed broccoli, carrots, string beans and kohlrabi clinched my conclusion that Aluma was far from living up to its former glorious reputation. The kohlrabi tasted rotten, and when I asked the server about it, he replied that kohlrabi simply tastes sour when cooked and that other customers have asked the same question. If that's the case, why keep serving it?
Hoping dessert would redeem the meal, I asked the waiter (who was very friendly but not too helpful in providing menu guidance) what he recommended.
"They're all good," he replied.
I was hoping for a solid recommendation, because at this point I needed a sure thing. The "dessert tasters" (NIS 38) came with samples of Galilean delights: malabi, pistachio ice cream and candied squash. They were quite good, but not good enough to save the overall lackluster meal.
After probing a little further, I discovered that Aluma has recently undergone several sous-chef turnovers in the kitchen that have led to inconsistency. I certainly caught Aluma on a bad day.
Tarshiha-Kfar Havradim road; tel: (04) 957-4477; www.aluma.co.il Not kosher.
Aluma is located on a small street in Tarshiha, an Arab town on the outskirts of Kfar Havradim. For several years it has has been considered one of the most prestigious bistros in the Western Galilee, hosting some of the best chefs in Israel. However, during my recent trip to Western Galilee, my hosts at the guest houses did not recommend Aluma, as an option for dinner. I soon figured out why.
The interior of Aluma promised a pleasant dining experience. Its simple country French design was warm and inviting, but in no way ostentatious.
The food, however, proved adequate at best, certainly not as outstanding as I had expected - and hoped - it would be.
The meal was introduced with fresh homebaked bread served with a tasty olive spread, a punchy tomato spread (use sparingly!), and a fresh lentil dip. It took a downward turn with the "appetizer samples" (served only with the business lunch). The roasted eggplant, served on a bed of white beans, was much too bland. The veal carpaccio arrived buried under balsamic vinegar and arugula, and I couldn't help but wonder if it was an attempt to hide the rather oddly colored cuts of veal. The liver pate, served cold with grape jam and pistachio nuts, lay on a bed of hard shmaltz (chicken fat). The waiter assured me that the liver was supposed to be served like that, but the fat certainly clogged my enjoyment of the otherwise tasty pate. The perfectly crisp crab cakes, while flavored well, felt dry.
The transitional sorbet was not an effective amuse bouche; it was more like slush.
The meal segued into the rather pedestrian poulet stuffed with herbs, pistachio, raisins and dried tomatoes (NIS 78). The stuffing of the rather stingy portion had the aroma of packaged seasoning. But the vegetable side of steamed broccoli, carrots, string beans and kohlrabi clinched my conclusion that Aluma was far from living up to its former glorious reputation. The kohlrabi tasted rotten, and when I asked the server about it, he replied that kohlrabi simply tastes sour when cooked and that other customers have asked the same question. If that's the case, why keep serving it?
Hoping dessert would redeem the meal, I asked the waiter (who was very friendly but not too helpful in providing menu guidance) what he recommended.
"They're all good," he replied.
I was hoping for a solid recommendation, because at this point I needed a sure thing. The "dessert tasters" (NIS 38) came with samples of Galilean delights: malabi, pistachio ice cream and candied squash. They were quite good, but not good enough to save the overall lackluster meal.
After probing a little further, I discovered that Aluma has recently undergone several sous-chef turnovers in the kitchen that have led to inconsistency. I certainly caught Aluma on a bad day.
Tarshiha-Kfar Havradim road; tel: (04) 957-4477; www.aluma.co.il Not kosher.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Klil: off the beaten path
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; December 13, 2007
Click here for original
Nestled in the green hills by Nahariya and fueled almost exclusively by natural energy sources, Klil takes organic, creative living to a different dimension
You'll probably need a GPS to get you to the entrance of Klil, but be warned: once you enter, it stops working. Klil consists of dirt roads carved through shrubby hills leading to custom-made one and two-story homes.
Klil doesn't look like it belongs in the tiny state of Israel. Residents' gardens consist of acres of land filled with organic herbs, orchards and olive trees. Colorful signs lead the driver to Klil's attractions, among them a goat cheese shop, a bakery and a few cafes, a soap and honey maker, and jewelry, glassworks and ceramic shops. Just watch out for the wild boars (don't worry, they don't attack humans, only agriculture); I almost ran over a pack late at night on the dirt road.
Klil, located 14km east of Nahariya was built as an ecological settlement in 1978. It started out with seven seed families and grew to accommodate some 100 families today. Dr. Irit Schreier, the head of the Klil community council, explained the principles behind the community in the wilderness.
'We call it an agro-ecological model of settlement that combines three elements: First is organic agriculture - it's forbidden to grow non-organic agriculture. The second is sustainable orchards - growing trees with simple methods that maintain ecological balance. The third is developing the wild greenery of the region.'
The residents try to use only natural sources of energy. Every home has solar electricity panels, but residents soon found that solar panels are not always enough, so they are backed up by generators.
There is a sense of refined beauty in Klil and it is a unique and quirky alternative to the more predictable resorts in the Golan and along the Kinneret. The residents are hospitable, and several Klil families have built tzimmers on their land to host out-of-towners. Here are some highlights, but don't worry about the GPS: part of the fun is getting lost and exploring on your own.
FOOD
Brunch at Smadar BeClil comes recommended if you're looking for delicious vegetarian food and friendly hospitality. Smadar and Yossi Yardeni, among Klil's first residents, converted the family's first home into a restaurant furnished with handcrafted wooden furniture both indoors and out. While cutting up organic vegetables from the kitchen, Yardeni explained the reason for her move from Jerusalem, where she was a student at the Bezalel School of Art.
'We decided our future needed more space; we wanted land,' says Yardeni. 'We loved the virgin nature of Klil; you can preserve it.' To realize the Klil dream, they bought land from Druse living in Galilee and started out in a tent: 'We were very self-sufficient; we grew vegetables, herded goats.'
They closed down their own organic goat-cheese dairy about six years ago, and Yardeni, now 50-years-old, considers managing her restaurant and two tzimmers as her form of retirement in comparison. The love she puts into her work is evident in the brunch, consisting of fluffy herb omelets, a plate of delicious goat cheese (including some from Klil's own cheesemaker), a platter of vegetables topped with Yardeni's own olive oil and fresh mint lemonade. (Don't miss her homemade guava jam.) For lunch and dinner she offers salads, sandwiches and homemade pastas.
Further along the rocky road is Cafe B'Clil, a well-kept camping ground with its own cafe for those who don't need the comforts - and expense - of a tzimmer. Camping tents go for NIS 80 per person (NIS 60 for children) and they come with mattresses only. The founder is Tamar Schoer, a former art teacher and veteran resident of Klil.
I visited the shanty cafe as the cooks were preparing for the Thursday night crowd. Open to the public only on weekends, the cafe is reminiscent of the cushioned-lined restaurant huts in Sinai, minus the desert, water and Beduin. The conditions may be simple, but the olive trees, avocado trees, white tents, and lots of green that surrounds Cafe B'Clil make this place exceptional.
Smadar BeClil: 04-956-1678; http://www.ohalimretreats.com/cafe_clil.htm
Cafe B'Clil: (04) 996-9432; 052-326-1898
CRAFTS
Craftsman and artists have made Klil their home for the inspiration and solitude the surroundings provide. For ceramist Yael Shemer, the electricity shortage has actually sparked a new way of working.
Moving to Klil ten years ago has forced Shemer to fire up her clay using a method she never thought she would implement when she learned ceramics as a Bezalel student: gas ovens. Electric solar panels were simply not strong enough for her to power the more widely used electric oven. Shemer has found that she prefers this method. The oxidation of the gas oven renders unpredictable, unique color streaks in her ceramic jugs, plates and mugs.
Inside her garage-like studio, her shelves are filled with dozens of literally half-baked works. As a result of the energy shortage at Klil, Shemer fires the oven only about three times a month, and the ceramics require several rounds in the oven.
Luckily for newer Klil resident Reut Keret, electricity isn't required for her work. She sells her own handcrafted jewelry from a little corner in the small house she shares with her husband. She named her small boutique 'Sundri', which means 'pretty woman' in Hindi since her jewelry is made using gemstones imported from India. She crafts jewelry using a method that requires minimal tools - and no electricity outlets. While her selection of jewelry is rather small, she sells striking gems that follow the length of the ear lobe.
Yael Shemer: (04) 980-4571; Sundri: 050-634-3114
ENTERTAINMENT
Ada Moril of Diane and Ada, a folk music duo popular on the folk and world-music circuit, has made her home in Klil for the past 30 years ago. When I stopped by her 'Yellow House,' as it is officially called, she and her family were in the middle of separating olives from the branches to make their own olive oil.
Sitting under an ancient olive tree, the Canadian-Israeli explained in native English how she moved to Klil to find a quiet place in nature focused on ecological living. 'Already in Canada I knew I wanted to live in the country, in the hills overlooking the sea.' She has fulfilled her dream: It was a clear day and the coast of Nahariya shone cobalt blue.
In her living room Moril hosts her own concerts as well as those of other folk acts. From her home she also leads groups on herb trails, explaining the culinary and medicinal properties of herbs that grow wild in the Klil hills.
www.diane-ada.com; www.clil.net/ada Tel: 04-996-9540
A BOON IN THE BOONDOCKS
If Klil feels like it's located at the end of the earth, then B'vadi Etzel Ayali's is at the farthest end. It takes a few turns on thin dirt roads to reach one of its two mountain cabins, built on stilts, but once you do, there are nothing but mountainous forests of mint green and gray-hued lavender to distract you. You can feel like you are the only two people who exist on earth, so be sure to come with someone you really, really like.
The cabin I stayed in was designed in wood and warm, reddish tones, but clearly the best part about the tzimmer was the view from the patio, smartly situated with its back to the rest of Klil. The only sign of life in the forests was a rundown crusader fortress located at Kibbutz Yehiam at the peak of a far hill. In the winter, water flows through Nahal Yehiam below, and the Jewish National Fund has carved out a hiking trail along it.
The cabin includes a lounge area, a fully stocked kitchen, and a small hot tub room adjacent to the bedroom. But you might have to ruin your private moment and tell the owner, Esti Ayali, when you want to use the hot tub; she needs to turn on the electricity generator to generate the bubbles. Esti and her husband, Yoav, live next door in their home and they're always available on their cell-phone (when you catch a line!) to cater to the guests' needs.
Blame it on the electricity solar panels, but lamps don't shine too brightly inside, adding to the intimate and romantic setting. There is no television - fortunately - but a stereo system with a small music selection. This trip's most relaxing moment came when this writer popped in one of their Mozart CDs and dropped on the queen size bed to the sounds of birds chirping in the carob trees.
NIS 1,500 per couple for two nights, including breakfast, on weekends; weekday discounts available.
Tel: 050-379-4661; www.eyali.co.il
Click here for original
Nestled in the green hills by Nahariya and fueled almost exclusively by natural energy sources, Klil takes organic, creative living to a different dimension
You'll probably need a GPS to get you to the entrance of Klil, but be warned: once you enter, it stops working. Klil consists of dirt roads carved through shrubby hills leading to custom-made one and two-story homes.
Klil doesn't look like it belongs in the tiny state of Israel. Residents' gardens consist of acres of land filled with organic herbs, orchards and olive trees. Colorful signs lead the driver to Klil's attractions, among them a goat cheese shop, a bakery and a few cafes, a soap and honey maker, and jewelry, glassworks and ceramic shops. Just watch out for the wild boars (don't worry, they don't attack humans, only agriculture); I almost ran over a pack late at night on the dirt road.
Klil, located 14km east of Nahariya was built as an ecological settlement in 1978. It started out with seven seed families and grew to accommodate some 100 families today. Dr. Irit Schreier, the head of the Klil community council, explained the principles behind the community in the wilderness.
'We call it an agro-ecological model of settlement that combines three elements: First is organic agriculture - it's forbidden to grow non-organic agriculture. The second is sustainable orchards - growing trees with simple methods that maintain ecological balance. The third is developing the wild greenery of the region.'
The residents try to use only natural sources of energy. Every home has solar electricity panels, but residents soon found that solar panels are not always enough, so they are backed up by generators.
There is a sense of refined beauty in Klil and it is a unique and quirky alternative to the more predictable resorts in the Golan and along the Kinneret. The residents are hospitable, and several Klil families have built tzimmers on their land to host out-of-towners. Here are some highlights, but don't worry about the GPS: part of the fun is getting lost and exploring on your own.
FOOD
Brunch at Smadar BeClil comes recommended if you're looking for delicious vegetarian food and friendly hospitality. Smadar and Yossi Yardeni, among Klil's first residents, converted the family's first home into a restaurant furnished with handcrafted wooden furniture both indoors and out. While cutting up organic vegetables from the kitchen, Yardeni explained the reason for her move from Jerusalem, where she was a student at the Bezalel School of Art.
'We decided our future needed more space; we wanted land,' says Yardeni. 'We loved the virgin nature of Klil; you can preserve it.' To realize the Klil dream, they bought land from Druse living in Galilee and started out in a tent: 'We were very self-sufficient; we grew vegetables, herded goats.'
They closed down their own organic goat-cheese dairy about six years ago, and Yardeni, now 50-years-old, considers managing her restaurant and two tzimmers as her form of retirement in comparison. The love she puts into her work is evident in the brunch, consisting of fluffy herb omelets, a plate of delicious goat cheese (including some from Klil's own cheesemaker), a platter of vegetables topped with Yardeni's own olive oil and fresh mint lemonade. (Don't miss her homemade guava jam.) For lunch and dinner she offers salads, sandwiches and homemade pastas.
Further along the rocky road is Cafe B'Clil, a well-kept camping ground with its own cafe for those who don't need the comforts - and expense - of a tzimmer. Camping tents go for NIS 80 per person (NIS 60 for children) and they come with mattresses only. The founder is Tamar Schoer, a former art teacher and veteran resident of Klil.
I visited the shanty cafe as the cooks were preparing for the Thursday night crowd. Open to the public only on weekends, the cafe is reminiscent of the cushioned-lined restaurant huts in Sinai, minus the desert, water and Beduin. The conditions may be simple, but the olive trees, avocado trees, white tents, and lots of green that surrounds Cafe B'Clil make this place exceptional.
Smadar BeClil: 04-956-1678; http://www.ohalimretreats.com/cafe_clil.htm
Cafe B'Clil: (04) 996-9432; 052-326-1898
CRAFTS
Craftsman and artists have made Klil their home for the inspiration and solitude the surroundings provide. For ceramist Yael Shemer, the electricity shortage has actually sparked a new way of working.
Moving to Klil ten years ago has forced Shemer to fire up her clay using a method she never thought she would implement when she learned ceramics as a Bezalel student: gas ovens. Electric solar panels were simply not strong enough for her to power the more widely used electric oven. Shemer has found that she prefers this method. The oxidation of the gas oven renders unpredictable, unique color streaks in her ceramic jugs, plates and mugs.
Inside her garage-like studio, her shelves are filled with dozens of literally half-baked works. As a result of the energy shortage at Klil, Shemer fires the oven only about three times a month, and the ceramics require several rounds in the oven.
Luckily for newer Klil resident Reut Keret, electricity isn't required for her work. She sells her own handcrafted jewelry from a little corner in the small house she shares with her husband. She named her small boutique 'Sundri', which means 'pretty woman' in Hindi since her jewelry is made using gemstones imported from India. She crafts jewelry using a method that requires minimal tools - and no electricity outlets. While her selection of jewelry is rather small, she sells striking gems that follow the length of the ear lobe.
Yael Shemer: (04) 980-4571; Sundri: 050-634-3114
ENTERTAINMENT
Ada Moril of Diane and Ada, a folk music duo popular on the folk and world-music circuit, has made her home in Klil for the past 30 years ago. When I stopped by her 'Yellow House,' as it is officially called, she and her family were in the middle of separating olives from the branches to make their own olive oil.
Sitting under an ancient olive tree, the Canadian-Israeli explained in native English how she moved to Klil to find a quiet place in nature focused on ecological living. 'Already in Canada I knew I wanted to live in the country, in the hills overlooking the sea.' She has fulfilled her dream: It was a clear day and the coast of Nahariya shone cobalt blue.
In her living room Moril hosts her own concerts as well as those of other folk acts. From her home she also leads groups on herb trails, explaining the culinary and medicinal properties of herbs that grow wild in the Klil hills.
www.diane-ada.com; www.clil.net/ada Tel: 04-996-9540
A BOON IN THE BOONDOCKS
If Klil feels like it's located at the end of the earth, then B'vadi Etzel Ayali's is at the farthest end. It takes a few turns on thin dirt roads to reach one of its two mountain cabins, built on stilts, but once you do, there are nothing but mountainous forests of mint green and gray-hued lavender to distract you. You can feel like you are the only two people who exist on earth, so be sure to come with someone you really, really like.
The cabin I stayed in was designed in wood and warm, reddish tones, but clearly the best part about the tzimmer was the view from the patio, smartly situated with its back to the rest of Klil. The only sign of life in the forests was a rundown crusader fortress located at Kibbutz Yehiam at the peak of a far hill. In the winter, water flows through Nahal Yehiam below, and the Jewish National Fund has carved out a hiking trail along it.
The cabin includes a lounge area, a fully stocked kitchen, and a small hot tub room adjacent to the bedroom. But you might have to ruin your private moment and tell the owner, Esti Ayali, when you want to use the hot tub; she needs to turn on the electricity generator to generate the bubbles. Esti and her husband, Yoav, live next door in their home and they're always available on their cell-phone (when you catch a line!) to cater to the guests' needs.
Blame it on the electricity solar panels, but lamps don't shine too brightly inside, adding to the intimate and romantic setting. There is no television - fortunately - but a stereo system with a small music selection. This trip's most relaxing moment came when this writer popped in one of their Mozart CDs and dropped on the queen size bed to the sounds of birds chirping in the carob trees.
NIS 1,500 per couple for two nights, including breakfast, on weekends; weekday discounts available.
Tel: 050-379-4661; www.eyali.co.il
Friday, November 30, 2007
Cooking up a storm
Jerusalem Post, Billboard; November 30, 2007
One has to wonder what the Jerusalem Municipality was thinking when, as a tribute to 40 years of a united Jerusalem, it pitted top chefs from Tel Aviv against chefs from Jerusalem in a gourmet cooking competition.
At the risk of sounding unfaithful to the city I live in, I could understand a contest between the metropolis and the capital for the best rugelach, the best Jewish art, the best rabbis - but the best gourmet meal?
Anyone conversant with in the Israeli culinary scene could easily have predicted the winner even before the contest began. Jerusalem may be the capital of Israel, but Tel Aviv is the capital of Israel's restaurant industry. While many talented chefs were born and raised in Jerusalem, those seeking a career in the kitchen eventually moved to the big city, like Aviv Moshe of Messa and Rafi Cohen of Raphael, where the cosmopolitan cooking culture pushes them to international standards of excellence.
But if the event was meant to promote the last weekend of the Hamshushalayim festival, during which cultural institutions are open to the public free of charge and local restaurants offer special menus, the competition was well done. The conference hall of the Inbal Hotel, where the event was held on Monday, was packed with city officials, journalists and press photographers vying for a glimpse - and perhaps a bite - of the two four-course meals inspired by the holy city.
"We are sure Jerusalem will win," said Tal Marom Malovec, spokesperson of the tourism and culture unit of the Jerusalem Municipality, ahead of the competition. "They worked a full week on the menus, the plan. They'll give Tel Aviv a fight."
But Jerusalem set itself up for defeat when it invited Meir Adoni, chef of the acclaimed Catit restaurant, to be part of the Tel Aviv team, along with Shaul Ben-Aderet of Kimel, Chef Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli, and Chef Hadassa Wolf of Comme Il Faut. Catit was recently voted by readers of Time Out magazine as the best restaurant in Tel Aviv, and a few weeks before that, Adoni became an instant national chef celebrity when he was the first of four Israeli chefs (including Aviv Moshe) to beat out French chef Stephane Froidevaux in Channel 10's cooking showdown "Battle of the Knives."
Despite Adoni's fondness for Jerusalem, which he developed as a chef under famed chef Ezra Kedem of Jerusalem's Arcadia restaurant and as a boy growing up in a Zionist household, he wasn't about to cook with mercy. "It looks bad [if Tel Aviv wins], but we'll still win, even if it's by half a point," Adoni forecast ahead of the cook- off.
But the competition was digested in good fun by both teams. The atmosphere in the large kitchen of the Inbal was lively, optimistic and friendly, with chefs from each team encouraging each other and Adoni leading his team in old Jerusalem folk songs.
"There's no pressure, we're cooking in good spirits," said chef Itzik Mizrahi, head chef of the Inbal Hotel and its Sofia restaurant, the official caterer of the president. He headed the Jerusalem team consisting of chef Marcus Gershkovitz of Canela, chef Motti Zigron of La Carossa, chef Guy Ben-Simhon of La Guta and chef Dafna Baruch of Pituyim.
He was in charge of the Jerusalem entree, consisting of lamb chops on a bed of root vegetables. "We want to show that Jerusalem is about more than just humous and ktzitzot [meatballs]."
Both teams prepared their dishes using raw materials endemic to Jerusalem, including Jerusalem artichoke, chickpeas, root vegetables, sesame, wheat, beets and za'atar.
Ben-Simhon prepared his team's starting dish, a gourmet rendition of me'urav yerushalmi, a popular Jerusalem street food consisting of a mix of grilled meats usually served in pita. He served the meat inside bone marrow on a bed of spicy chickpeas. While plating the dish in a tin pan set on Jerusalem stone garnished by olives and olive leaves, he expressed his confidence. "It's always fun to win, especially against another city, and I think we'll win. If not, a tie is also good."
The courses were served to the three judges on the dais: television cooking personality chef Haim Cohen, host of TV show Garlic, Pepper and Olive Oil; cookbook author and food writer Phyllis Glazer; and actress Sarit Vino- Elad.
Dishes were served unmarked, but both Cohen and Glazer admitted to In Jerusalem that they could recognize the creators by the mere presentation.
"From the first dish, I felt who was Jerusalem and who was Tel Aviv - the taste, the presentation, the plating," said Cohen.
"From what I've seen of Tel Aviv," added Glazer, "it's not so much the plating, but the taste. They're more sophisticated, use a range of ingredients and are more delicate."
The final overall score came out to 135:150, Tel Aviv.
Simhon got his "tie" with Adoni, who served sashimi on a bed of chickpeas - quite a feat (unless there were mercy points).
Dafna Baruch beat Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli in Tel Aviv for best dessert with her scrumptious sesame pastry filled with halva cream, garnished with brandied figs.
But the winning entree, "A Jerusalem Winter Stewpot," concocted by Shaul Ben-Aderet, went hands down to Tel Aviv (literally, after the journalists couldn't stop themselves from dipping their fingers into the large pot in the kitchen). The homey stew artfully and deliciously reflected the authentic Jerusalem kitchen, with lamb, beef cheek and tongue, cooked wheat, stuffed artichoke and cinnamon and paprika spicing.
"This is the Jerusalem dish," said Cohen of the stewpot. "It comes from here. Lamb chops don't come from here."
The winning recipes were served to President Shimon Peres on Thursday. Upon accepting the Medallion of Honor on behalf of Tel Aviv, Adoni generously announced to the city of Jerusalem, "It's yours!"
One has to wonder what the Jerusalem Municipality was thinking when, as a tribute to 40 years of a united Jerusalem, it pitted top chefs from Tel Aviv against chefs from Jerusalem in a gourmet cooking competition.
At the risk of sounding unfaithful to the city I live in, I could understand a contest between the metropolis and the capital for the best rugelach, the best Jewish art, the best rabbis - but the best gourmet meal?
Anyone conversant with in the Israeli culinary scene could easily have predicted the winner even before the contest began. Jerusalem may be the capital of Israel, but Tel Aviv is the capital of Israel's restaurant industry. While many talented chefs were born and raised in Jerusalem, those seeking a career in the kitchen eventually moved to the big city, like Aviv Moshe of Messa and Rafi Cohen of Raphael, where the cosmopolitan cooking culture pushes them to international standards of excellence.
But if the event was meant to promote the last weekend of the Hamshushalayim festival, during which cultural institutions are open to the public free of charge and local restaurants offer special menus, the competition was well done. The conference hall of the Inbal Hotel, where the event was held on Monday, was packed with city officials, journalists and press photographers vying for a glimpse - and perhaps a bite - of the two four-course meals inspired by the holy city.
"We are sure Jerusalem will win," said Tal Marom Malovec, spokesperson of the tourism and culture unit of the Jerusalem Municipality, ahead of the competition. "They worked a full week on the menus, the plan. They'll give Tel Aviv a fight."
But Jerusalem set itself up for defeat when it invited Meir Adoni, chef of the acclaimed Catit restaurant, to be part of the Tel Aviv team, along with Shaul Ben-Aderet of Kimel, Chef Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli, and Chef Hadassa Wolf of Comme Il Faut. Catit was recently voted by readers of Time Out magazine as the best restaurant in Tel Aviv, and a few weeks before that, Adoni became an instant national chef celebrity when he was the first of four Israeli chefs (including Aviv Moshe) to beat out French chef Stephane Froidevaux in Channel 10's cooking showdown "Battle of the Knives."
Despite Adoni's fondness for Jerusalem, which he developed as a chef under famed chef Ezra Kedem of Jerusalem's Arcadia restaurant and as a boy growing up in a Zionist household, he wasn't about to cook with mercy. "It looks bad [if Tel Aviv wins], but we'll still win, even if it's by half a point," Adoni forecast ahead of the cook- off.
But the competition was digested in good fun by both teams. The atmosphere in the large kitchen of the Inbal was lively, optimistic and friendly, with chefs from each team encouraging each other and Adoni leading his team in old Jerusalem folk songs.
"There's no pressure, we're cooking in good spirits," said chef Itzik Mizrahi, head chef of the Inbal Hotel and its Sofia restaurant, the official caterer of the president. He headed the Jerusalem team consisting of chef Marcus Gershkovitz of Canela, chef Motti Zigron of La Carossa, chef Guy Ben-Simhon of La Guta and chef Dafna Baruch of Pituyim.
He was in charge of the Jerusalem entree, consisting of lamb chops on a bed of root vegetables. "We want to show that Jerusalem is about more than just humous and ktzitzot [meatballs]."
Both teams prepared their dishes using raw materials endemic to Jerusalem, including Jerusalem artichoke, chickpeas, root vegetables, sesame, wheat, beets and za'atar.
Ben-Simhon prepared his team's starting dish, a gourmet rendition of me'urav yerushalmi, a popular Jerusalem street food consisting of a mix of grilled meats usually served in pita. He served the meat inside bone marrow on a bed of spicy chickpeas. While plating the dish in a tin pan set on Jerusalem stone garnished by olives and olive leaves, he expressed his confidence. "It's always fun to win, especially against another city, and I think we'll win. If not, a tie is also good."
The courses were served to the three judges on the dais: television cooking personality chef Haim Cohen, host of TV show Garlic, Pepper and Olive Oil; cookbook author and food writer Phyllis Glazer; and actress Sarit Vino- Elad.
Dishes were served unmarked, but both Cohen and Glazer admitted to In Jerusalem that they could recognize the creators by the mere presentation.
"From the first dish, I felt who was Jerusalem and who was Tel Aviv - the taste, the presentation, the plating," said Cohen.
"From what I've seen of Tel Aviv," added Glazer, "it's not so much the plating, but the taste. They're more sophisticated, use a range of ingredients and are more delicate."
The final overall score came out to 135:150, Tel Aviv.
Simhon got his "tie" with Adoni, who served sashimi on a bed of chickpeas - quite a feat (unless there were mercy points).
Dafna Baruch beat Antonio Mensa of Ali-Oli in Tel Aviv for best dessert with her scrumptious sesame pastry filled with halva cream, garnished with brandied figs.
But the winning entree, "A Jerusalem Winter Stewpot," concocted by Shaul Ben-Aderet, went hands down to Tel Aviv (literally, after the journalists couldn't stop themselves from dipping their fingers into the large pot in the kitchen). The homey stew artfully and deliciously reflected the authentic Jerusalem kitchen, with lamb, beef cheek and tongue, cooked wheat, stuffed artichoke and cinnamon and paprika spicing.
"This is the Jerusalem dish," said Cohen of the stewpot. "It comes from here. Lamb chops don't come from here."
The winning recipes were served to President Shimon Peres on Thursday. Upon accepting the Medallion of Honor on behalf of Tel Aviv, Adoni generously announced to the city of Jerusalem, "It's yours!"
For those who are 'not all there' (dance bar review)
Jerusalem Post, Billboard; November 30, 2007
Mental has made a name for itself as the hottest dance bar in Tel Aviv, but it didn't look like it when we arrived at 11 p.m. on Thursday, the prime clubbing hour of the week. There was no line at the door, and a lot of empty bar stools. But like all Tel Aviv hotspots, Mental did get more 'happening' closer to 1 a.m. In this it resembles the Breakfast Club and Dada - underground dance bars that emphasize cutting-edge electronic music and after-hours nightlife.
Mental, already eight months old, is appropriately named because people are inclined to go crazy there, what with the alcohol and electronic music. Just before rush hour, however, the impression isn't particularly spectacular. Mental is not about overblown glam, but dark, minimalist style.
I anticipated a righteous coolness; sometimes the vibe of underground dance bars can be snobby. So when a very good-looking guy in a sweaty T-shirt cheerfully greeted us from behind the bar and introduced himself as the owner, I expressed surprise at his friendliness. Owners of such digs are often stuck-up.
'Not us,' he said.
My New York friend and I asked for a menu from the bartender, who looked like a skinhead, complete with a mean demeanor and tattoos all over his arms, including one of a cross. The skinhead supported my original thesis. To our menu request, he grunted: 'Not here.'
Okay, no menus. We asked him to recommend a cocktail. He looked at us as if we were aliens. Fortunately, a different bartender - friendly, down-to-earth and with curly blond hair - took over.
'Don't you recommend drinks here?' I asked.
'Not here. People who come here generally know what they want,' he said simply, without making us feel like dummies. At Mental, people want the hard, simple mixes; girly cocktails like apple martinis and cosmos are not their specialties. Tonic water, however, is. The sweet bartender accidentally knocked a bottle in our direction, spilling some on my friend's pants. He apologized.
Hoping that the music would compensate for the wet pants, my friend committed the faux pas of asking if the DJ would spin pop music.
'Not here.'
Of course.
On weekends, Mental is clearly the place for electronic music fans, although Tuesday night is dedicated to other genres, including pop and Israeli music.
As the classic rock warm-up turned into Mental's signature electro music, we forgot about the spilt drink and our pop dreams. The powerful, balanced sound system did justice to the creative yet fun-loving beats that got us onto the floor to dance and flirt. Unfortunately, some of the other dancers seemed somewhat high on themselves (and probably on other substances as well).
Before leaving, we thought it was time to test the owner's sincerity. We told him about the spilt drink, explaining that it called for more than just a sweet apology.
'Not here,' he replied.
Actually, it didn't seem like he was all there, either. And neither were we. He reluctantly offered us vodka chasers as compensation, and after finishing them off, we went to finish off the night at Griffin - the mega- bar a few blocks down which offers menus, cocktails, pop music, and a little more approachability.
Party line-up: Sunday is for the Tel Aviv working man; Monday sees live bands; Tuesday brings pop and electronic freestyle; Wednesday features special guest DJs; on weekends, expect electronic freestyle.
Mental; 7 Shadal St.; tel. (054) 542-9989.
Mental has made a name for itself as the hottest dance bar in Tel Aviv, but it didn't look like it when we arrived at 11 p.m. on Thursday, the prime clubbing hour of the week. There was no line at the door, and a lot of empty bar stools. But like all Tel Aviv hotspots, Mental did get more 'happening' closer to 1 a.m. In this it resembles the Breakfast Club and Dada - underground dance bars that emphasize cutting-edge electronic music and after-hours nightlife.
Mental, already eight months old, is appropriately named because people are inclined to go crazy there, what with the alcohol and electronic music. Just before rush hour, however, the impression isn't particularly spectacular. Mental is not about overblown glam, but dark, minimalist style.
I anticipated a righteous coolness; sometimes the vibe of underground dance bars can be snobby. So when a very good-looking guy in a sweaty T-shirt cheerfully greeted us from behind the bar and introduced himself as the owner, I expressed surprise at his friendliness. Owners of such digs are often stuck-up.
'Not us,' he said.
My New York friend and I asked for a menu from the bartender, who looked like a skinhead, complete with a mean demeanor and tattoos all over his arms, including one of a cross. The skinhead supported my original thesis. To our menu request, he grunted: 'Not here.'
Okay, no menus. We asked him to recommend a cocktail. He looked at us as if we were aliens. Fortunately, a different bartender - friendly, down-to-earth and with curly blond hair - took over.
'Don't you recommend drinks here?' I asked.
'Not here. People who come here generally know what they want,' he said simply, without making us feel like dummies. At Mental, people want the hard, simple mixes; girly cocktails like apple martinis and cosmos are not their specialties. Tonic water, however, is. The sweet bartender accidentally knocked a bottle in our direction, spilling some on my friend's pants. He apologized.
Hoping that the music would compensate for the wet pants, my friend committed the faux pas of asking if the DJ would spin pop music.
'Not here.'
Of course.
On weekends, Mental is clearly the place for electronic music fans, although Tuesday night is dedicated to other genres, including pop and Israeli music.
As the classic rock warm-up turned into Mental's signature electro music, we forgot about the spilt drink and our pop dreams. The powerful, balanced sound system did justice to the creative yet fun-loving beats that got us onto the floor to dance and flirt. Unfortunately, some of the other dancers seemed somewhat high on themselves (and probably on other substances as well).
Before leaving, we thought it was time to test the owner's sincerity. We told him about the spilt drink, explaining that it called for more than just a sweet apology.
'Not here,' he replied.
Actually, it didn't seem like he was all there, either. And neither were we. He reluctantly offered us vodka chasers as compensation, and after finishing them off, we went to finish off the night at Griffin - the mega- bar a few blocks down which offers menus, cocktails, pop music, and a little more approachability.
Party line-up: Sunday is for the Tel Aviv working man; Monday sees live bands; Tuesday brings pop and electronic freestyle; Wednesday features special guest DJs; on weekends, expect electronic freestyle.
Mental; 7 Shadal St.; tel. (054) 542-9989.
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Fat chance (restaurant review)
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; November 22, 2007
If you're looking for more than a few drinks on plastic chairs, the Gordo restobar could be the spot for you on Tel Aviv's promenade.
Warning: Those who settle on the deck of Gordo for a sunset dinner may not want to leave until the early hours. I don't know of any other restaurant on the Tel Aviv promenade that hands out blankets with a smile so that diners can cozy up under the tall metal heat lamps when it gets chilly.
Located right off the boardwalk underneath the Renaissance Hotel on Gordon beach, Gordo is exactly what the folksy Tel Aviv promenade needs to achieve a more stylish, sophisticated edge.
The handsome eatery is spread out on a multi-leveled patio, designed so that each seating corner gets a view of the water. Gordo is both child and animal friendly. Lounging around me on the cushioned sofas and chairs for Friday night dinner were lone couples, a small family with its dog, and what seemed to be a large tourist group. The tropic outdoor bar leads to the entrance of a plush dance lounge that's ideal for singles seeking a mix of drinks, dancing and romance.
In building the two-month-old Gordo (which means "fat" in Spanish), Ronen Avni, one of the five owners, stated that their goal was design, food, service and quality. So far, they have lived up to their aims. While the owners' specialty is nightlife - they have founded some of the city's most successful bars: Blend, The Lobby and Golden Bar - they have passed over to restaurants quite well. No detail here is spared, from the coasters featuring the image of "Gordo" (an animated rotund man), to the soft, pastel upholstery, to the garnish on the dishes.
We started out with an eggplant carpaccio (NIS 28) from Gordo's temporary menu, which for now includes a limited but respectable selection of appetizers, salads, seafood, meat dishes and kids' meals. The creative and aesthetic round dish was a light and scrumptious starter, consisting of soft, grilled eggplant topped with balsamic vinegar and feta. It formed an ideal vegetarian alternative to the beef carpaccio (also on the menu). The Greek salad we also ordered was rather plain, consisting chunks of cucumbers and tomatoes, but salads are not their prominent dishes, the fish and seafood are.
The quality of the raw materials was tangible in their finger- licking, firm spicy shrimp flavored with chili, tomatoes and thin garlic wedges (NIS 48/84).
The sea bass (NIS 94), that was served whole and extremely fresh, was one of the best fish dishes I've eaten in a while. It was tender and stuffed with roasted garlic cloves whose jam added depth of delicious flavor to the fish and accompanying Chinese bok choy. The roasted potatoes and bread were rather basic.
Once the sun set, the only illumination came from yellow Christmas lights wrapped around the patio umbrellas. The smile of the gracious waiter, who pledged at the beginning of the evening that our satisfaction was his goal and was good to his word, also helped to brighten the evening.
The desserts were not as unique or impressive as the previous dishes. The malabi had a nice milky texture and flavor, topped with pink rose water and nuts. The creme brulee (NIS 34), torched right behind the bar, should satisfy fans of the dish.
However, I regret not opting for the whiskey chocolate cubes.
Too bad Gordo just missed summer. The Mediterranean dishes and atmosphere are perfect for summer heat. Yet the owners plan to install glass enclosures to make it a hot spot for winter. Given their apparent standards of excellence, I wouldn't be surprised if they perfected the menu and finishing touches to usher in the new season.
Gordo, Gordon Beach, Open from 9 a.m.; Tel: (03) 529- 3929. Not kosher.
If you're looking for more than a few drinks on plastic chairs, the Gordo restobar could be the spot for you on Tel Aviv's promenade.
Warning: Those who settle on the deck of Gordo for a sunset dinner may not want to leave until the early hours. I don't know of any other restaurant on the Tel Aviv promenade that hands out blankets with a smile so that diners can cozy up under the tall metal heat lamps when it gets chilly.
Located right off the boardwalk underneath the Renaissance Hotel on Gordon beach, Gordo is exactly what the folksy Tel Aviv promenade needs to achieve a more stylish, sophisticated edge.
The handsome eatery is spread out on a multi-leveled patio, designed so that each seating corner gets a view of the water. Gordo is both child and animal friendly. Lounging around me on the cushioned sofas and chairs for Friday night dinner were lone couples, a small family with its dog, and what seemed to be a large tourist group. The tropic outdoor bar leads to the entrance of a plush dance lounge that's ideal for singles seeking a mix of drinks, dancing and romance.
In building the two-month-old Gordo (which means "fat" in Spanish), Ronen Avni, one of the five owners, stated that their goal was design, food, service and quality. So far, they have lived up to their aims. While the owners' specialty is nightlife - they have founded some of the city's most successful bars: Blend, The Lobby and Golden Bar - they have passed over to restaurants quite well. No detail here is spared, from the coasters featuring the image of "Gordo" (an animated rotund man), to the soft, pastel upholstery, to the garnish on the dishes.
We started out with an eggplant carpaccio (NIS 28) from Gordo's temporary menu, which for now includes a limited but respectable selection of appetizers, salads, seafood, meat dishes and kids' meals. The creative and aesthetic round dish was a light and scrumptious starter, consisting of soft, grilled eggplant topped with balsamic vinegar and feta. It formed an ideal vegetarian alternative to the beef carpaccio (also on the menu). The Greek salad we also ordered was rather plain, consisting chunks of cucumbers and tomatoes, but salads are not their prominent dishes, the fish and seafood are.
The quality of the raw materials was tangible in their finger- licking, firm spicy shrimp flavored with chili, tomatoes and thin garlic wedges (NIS 48/84).
The sea bass (NIS 94), that was served whole and extremely fresh, was one of the best fish dishes I've eaten in a while. It was tender and stuffed with roasted garlic cloves whose jam added depth of delicious flavor to the fish and accompanying Chinese bok choy. The roasted potatoes and bread were rather basic.
Once the sun set, the only illumination came from yellow Christmas lights wrapped around the patio umbrellas. The smile of the gracious waiter, who pledged at the beginning of the evening that our satisfaction was his goal and was good to his word, also helped to brighten the evening.
The desserts were not as unique or impressive as the previous dishes. The malabi had a nice milky texture and flavor, topped with pink rose water and nuts. The creme brulee (NIS 34), torched right behind the bar, should satisfy fans of the dish.
However, I regret not opting for the whiskey chocolate cubes.
Too bad Gordo just missed summer. The Mediterranean dishes and atmosphere are perfect for summer heat. Yet the owners plan to install glass enclosures to make it a hot spot for winter. Given their apparent standards of excellence, I wouldn't be surprised if they perfected the menu and finishing touches to usher in the new season.
Gordo, Gordon Beach, Open from 9 a.m.; Tel: (03) 529- 3929. Not kosher.
Monday, November 12, 2007
Britney Spears' Blackout (disc review)
Jerusalem Post, Daily; November 12, 2007
BRITNEY SPEARS
Blackout
(RCA)
In 2002 Britney Spears sang to the world through a piano-backed ballad: 'I'm not yet a girl, not yet a woman.' Since then she has proved that she is more than a woman. The tabloids have relentlessly followed her ill-fated transformation to a wife (and a half), a mother, and a divorcee. Her latest and fifth studio album, Blackout, her 'comeback' album, communicates no motherly instincts, even as she vies for custody of her two boys, and judging from the sound and lyrics, Britney Spears is in more heat than ever.
Blackout is Spears' most strident deviation from her starry-eyed ballads and jumpy pop songs. Those who miss the fun-loving, teen-bop beats of 'Hit Me Baby One More Time' or 'Oops I Did it Again,' are advised to proceed with caution. Many songs on Blackout are not easily sing-able. Acoustic instruments are difficult to make out in the techno-tinged, synch-heavy songs, rendering them difficult for easy listening but ideal for pumping-and-grinding on the dance floor.
The album is replete with proud proclamations about her raunchy, seductive, freakish ways, indicating that she has no plans to end the lewd partying that has triggered the paparazzi maelstrom.
On the one hand, she hits back at the tabloids in 'Piece of Me' with lyrics like 'And with a kid on my arm/ I'm still an exception, and everybody/Want a piece of me.' Yet four songs later in 'Get Naked (I Got a Plan)' she's singing: 'My body is calling out for you bad boy/I get the feeling that I just want to be with ya/Baby, I'm a freak and I don't really give a damn/I'm crazy as a mother f***r.'
The first song, 'Gimme More', introduces the album with an assertive: 'It's Britney Bitch,' to signify her arrival. But anyone who saw her overly-lambasted performance of 'Gimme More' on the 2007 MTV Video Music Awards will remember how she arrived: stumbling and punch drunk. That performance aside, however, 'Gimme More' is a masterfully produced, upbeat dance song, and reached the top of the charts and number one on iTunes.
So if Spears hasn't necessarily arrived, then her producers definitely have. Modern beatmaster, Danja, the acclaimed protege of hip-hop producer Timbaland, who has churned out hits for Nelly Fertado and Justin Timberlake, is responsible for some of the most successful songs on the album, including 'Gimme More' and 'Hot as Ice', a fun and coy tune backed by whizzing hooks and punchy lyrics. The duo Bloodshy & Avant of 'Toxic' fame proves its knack for sultry beats and original electronic riffs with 'Radar.' Their 'Toy Soldiers' is a dizzying electronic march to Spears' cry directed at - who else? - ex-husband Keven Federline: 'This time I need a soldier/ a really badass soldier/ that knows how to take care of me/ I'm so damn glad that's over.'
It's difficult to say if Blackout will mark Spears' comeback because she's hardly present in the album, despite the autobiographical nature of some lyrics, not her own. She's more the canvas for the producers to showcase their mastery of rhythm and electronica. Her voice is heavily processed through vocoders and filters, making it another instrument - albeit an effective, seductive one.
Given all of Spears' personal problems, it rather sounds like, when making the album, she took a back seat in the studio, tilted her hat over her wig, and said, before blacking out: 'I partied too much last night and have a court case tomorrow. Wake me up when you need me to record.'
In fact, in a strange, inarticulate and brief interview with Ryan Seacrest on Los Angeles' KIIS FM, Seacrest asked her about the opening line, 'It's Britney Bitch', to which she replied: 'The producer told me to say thatÉ.whatever, you know.'
Success may depend on how well Spears sells the songs with knock-out (rather than knocked-out or knocked-up) performances and videos.
Spears is as much about choreographed image as she is about the music, and she can't rely forever on Britney voyeurs and crazed fans who can't get enough of her no matter what she does. It would be a shame if her new songs, which include potential hits, are wasted with clumsy performances, pointless pole- dancing, and just plain deranged womanhood.
BRITNEY SPEARS
Blackout
(RCA)
In 2002 Britney Spears sang to the world through a piano-backed ballad: 'I'm not yet a girl, not yet a woman.' Since then she has proved that she is more than a woman. The tabloids have relentlessly followed her ill-fated transformation to a wife (and a half), a mother, and a divorcee. Her latest and fifth studio album, Blackout, her 'comeback' album, communicates no motherly instincts, even as she vies for custody of her two boys, and judging from the sound and lyrics, Britney Spears is in more heat than ever.
Blackout is Spears' most strident deviation from her starry-eyed ballads and jumpy pop songs. Those who miss the fun-loving, teen-bop beats of 'Hit Me Baby One More Time' or 'Oops I Did it Again,' are advised to proceed with caution. Many songs on Blackout are not easily sing-able. Acoustic instruments are difficult to make out in the techno-tinged, synch-heavy songs, rendering them difficult for easy listening but ideal for pumping-and-grinding on the dance floor.
The album is replete with proud proclamations about her raunchy, seductive, freakish ways, indicating that she has no plans to end the lewd partying that has triggered the paparazzi maelstrom.
On the one hand, she hits back at the tabloids in 'Piece of Me' with lyrics like 'And with a kid on my arm/ I'm still an exception, and everybody/Want a piece of me.' Yet four songs later in 'Get Naked (I Got a Plan)' she's singing: 'My body is calling out for you bad boy/I get the feeling that I just want to be with ya/Baby, I'm a freak and I don't really give a damn/I'm crazy as a mother f***r.'
The first song, 'Gimme More', introduces the album with an assertive: 'It's Britney Bitch,' to signify her arrival. But anyone who saw her overly-lambasted performance of 'Gimme More' on the 2007 MTV Video Music Awards will remember how she arrived: stumbling and punch drunk. That performance aside, however, 'Gimme More' is a masterfully produced, upbeat dance song, and reached the top of the charts and number one on iTunes.
So if Spears hasn't necessarily arrived, then her producers definitely have. Modern beatmaster, Danja, the acclaimed protege of hip-hop producer Timbaland, who has churned out hits for Nelly Fertado and Justin Timberlake, is responsible for some of the most successful songs on the album, including 'Gimme More' and 'Hot as Ice', a fun and coy tune backed by whizzing hooks and punchy lyrics. The duo Bloodshy & Avant of 'Toxic' fame proves its knack for sultry beats and original electronic riffs with 'Radar.' Their 'Toy Soldiers' is a dizzying electronic march to Spears' cry directed at - who else? - ex-husband Keven Federline: 'This time I need a soldier/ a really badass soldier/ that knows how to take care of me/ I'm so damn glad that's over.'
It's difficult to say if Blackout will mark Spears' comeback because she's hardly present in the album, despite the autobiographical nature of some lyrics, not her own. She's more the canvas for the producers to showcase their mastery of rhythm and electronica. Her voice is heavily processed through vocoders and filters, making it another instrument - albeit an effective, seductive one.
Given all of Spears' personal problems, it rather sounds like, when making the album, she took a back seat in the studio, tilted her hat over her wig, and said, before blacking out: 'I partied too much last night and have a court case tomorrow. Wake me up when you need me to record.'
In fact, in a strange, inarticulate and brief interview with Ryan Seacrest on Los Angeles' KIIS FM, Seacrest asked her about the opening line, 'It's Britney Bitch', to which she replied: 'The producer told me to say thatÉ.whatever, you know.'
Success may depend on how well Spears sells the songs with knock-out (rather than knocked-out or knocked-up) performances and videos.
Spears is as much about choreographed image as she is about the music, and she can't rely forever on Britney voyeurs and crazed fans who can't get enough of her no matter what she does. It would be a shame if her new songs, which include potential hits, are wasted with clumsy performances, pointless pole- dancing, and just plain deranged womanhood.
Friday, November 9, 2007
Gotham in Jerusalem (dance bar review)
Jerusalem Post, Billboard; November 9, 2007
Click here for original
A new capital dance bar delivers the underground vibe of its Tel Aviv inspiration
Gotham is best described as the capital's version of The Breakfast Club, one of Tel Aviv's pioneering, underground dance bars. Any Jerusalem imitation deserves a reluctant welcome. Reluctant, because it's about time Jerusalem starts its own nightlife trends. Welcome, because Gotham is a pretty good knock-off with a distinctly Jerusalem touch.
Gotham has succeeded in importing the dark, underground vibe of its Tel Aviv role models, whose main draws are the DJs and their electronic music. Located in the center of town, it's guarded by bouncers meant to ensure a 25+ crowd. Gotham's interior weaves the Jerusalem stone walls with gothic and metallic themes. Wrapped (and warped) lightbulbs hang above the bar, and medieval-type metalwork and gargoyles add a Dark Age aura.
The ambitious yet successful design extends to the unisex bathroom, whose dark gray metallic fixtures look like something out of a Braque painting. Since The Breakfast Club is infamous for, err, unconventional activities in its stalls, Gotham's investment in the bathroom is understandable.
Gotham is destined for after-hours creatures. It only really begins to pick-up at 2 a.m. with synth and bass-heavy electronic music. On a recent Thursday night, the crowd was pretty grungy, and not necessarily 25+.
Gotham lacks a certain soft, feminine touch, which may have explained the higher male-to-female ratio, about 5:1. It was hard for my friend and me to focus on dancing while warding off advances from creepy men sorely lacking in a rich female selection.
Gotham has only been open for about two months, so it's hard to tell what kind of people it will attract in the long-run or how Jerusalemites will take to it. But for now the dance bar still fills a void in Jerusalem's underground nightlife scene. It just needs to fill up with a more attractive crowd to get to the more exclusive partying status of the more selective, hip Breakfast Club.
31 Jaffa Rd. (Feingold Courtyard, across from Adom restaurant); open Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Friday and Saturdays; 054-446-9711.
Click here for original
A new capital dance bar delivers the underground vibe of its Tel Aviv inspiration
Gotham is best described as the capital's version of The Breakfast Club, one of Tel Aviv's pioneering, underground dance bars. Any Jerusalem imitation deserves a reluctant welcome. Reluctant, because it's about time Jerusalem starts its own nightlife trends. Welcome, because Gotham is a pretty good knock-off with a distinctly Jerusalem touch.
Gotham has succeeded in importing the dark, underground vibe of its Tel Aviv role models, whose main draws are the DJs and their electronic music. Located in the center of town, it's guarded by bouncers meant to ensure a 25+ crowd. Gotham's interior weaves the Jerusalem stone walls with gothic and metallic themes. Wrapped (and warped) lightbulbs hang above the bar, and medieval-type metalwork and gargoyles add a Dark Age aura.
The ambitious yet successful design extends to the unisex bathroom, whose dark gray metallic fixtures look like something out of a Braque painting. Since The Breakfast Club is infamous for, err, unconventional activities in its stalls, Gotham's investment in the bathroom is understandable.
Gotham is destined for after-hours creatures. It only really begins to pick-up at 2 a.m. with synth and bass-heavy electronic music. On a recent Thursday night, the crowd was pretty grungy, and not necessarily 25+.
Gotham lacks a certain soft, feminine touch, which may have explained the higher male-to-female ratio, about 5:1. It was hard for my friend and me to focus on dancing while warding off advances from creepy men sorely lacking in a rich female selection.
Gotham has only been open for about two months, so it's hard to tell what kind of people it will attract in the long-run or how Jerusalemites will take to it. But for now the dance bar still fills a void in Jerusalem's underground nightlife scene. It just needs to fill up with a more attractive crowd to get to the more exclusive partying status of the more selective, hip Breakfast Club.
31 Jaffa Rd. (Feingold Courtyard, across from Adom restaurant); open Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Friday and Saturdays; 054-446-9711.
Thursday, November 1, 2007
Ravenous in Ra'anana
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; November 1, 2007
Borochov 88 is a mehadrin kosher, dairy restaurant that aims high, and, for the most part, delivers
It's easy to understand why, after only a month of operation, Borochov 88 is already packed on a Monday lunchtime with a visibly Orthodox clientele. Located in a quiet, green residential street in Ra'anana, the design, location and atmosphere of Borochov is pleasant and inviting. The wood-paneled, booth-lined cafe-restaurant combines contemporary style and mehadrin kashrut.
The extensive six-page menu offers every kind of dish one would find at the usual all-dairy kosher dig: egg breakfasts, salads, pastas, quiches, sandwiches, pizzas, and fish, but the dishes are given a modern and refined touch by chef-adviser Ilan Niv.
We started off with a rectangular foccaccia (NIS 17), seasoned very nicely with garlic and herbs and served with a delicious olive spread and olive oil. The salads are made with generous helpings of lettuce, and they were saved from being ordinary by a few added ingredients. The tuna salad, served with the predictable potato, eggs and pickles, was upgraded by three generous scoops of tuna nicely flavored with chives and sun-dried tomatoes. The health salad (NIS 38) was given a flavorful kick with granola and Tzfatit cheese. The feta salad (NIS 38) came loaded with sweet potato wedges and dried chips.
The onion quiche came with a crispy, fresh crust, and while the raw materials were fresh and tasty, the onions were a little too undercooked for my taste. Sweet potato seems to be a favored ingredient at Borochov 88, as it was the subject of another quiche and a pasta dish, both delightful.
For a protein entree, Borochov offers fish: grilled salmon, salmon kebab, and the daily catch. I tried the grilled sea bream (NIS 65). The dish was generous and fresh, served on a bed of, what else, a sweet potato mash. Pesto and a light red pepper coulis adorned the perimeter of the dish, but I would have rather a tailored sauce or seasoning layered the fish itself, which required a bit more interest. Lemon wedges on the side would have been nice.
For now, desserts are imported from a bakery in Rishon Lezion, and they include a variety of cakes. Once the rest of the menu is perfected, Borochov 88 will make its own desserts on premises. If their homemade chocolate cookies are a taste of what is to come, that's a good thing.
Overall Borochov 88 is a recommended all-purpose cafe-restaurant, particularly for kosher-eaters interested in casual dining, business lunches, a birthday dinner, morning coffee and pastry, or a first date. It includes a balcony facing the street and a VIP room for 80 people.
Borochov 88, Ra'anana, (09) 744-2203; Menu in English to come.
Borochov 88 is a mehadrin kosher, dairy restaurant that aims high, and, for the most part, delivers
It's easy to understand why, after only a month of operation, Borochov 88 is already packed on a Monday lunchtime with a visibly Orthodox clientele. Located in a quiet, green residential street in Ra'anana, the design, location and atmosphere of Borochov is pleasant and inviting. The wood-paneled, booth-lined cafe-restaurant combines contemporary style and mehadrin kashrut.
The extensive six-page menu offers every kind of dish one would find at the usual all-dairy kosher dig: egg breakfasts, salads, pastas, quiches, sandwiches, pizzas, and fish, but the dishes are given a modern and refined touch by chef-adviser Ilan Niv.
We started off with a rectangular foccaccia (NIS 17), seasoned very nicely with garlic and herbs and served with a delicious olive spread and olive oil. The salads are made with generous helpings of lettuce, and they were saved from being ordinary by a few added ingredients. The tuna salad, served with the predictable potato, eggs and pickles, was upgraded by three generous scoops of tuna nicely flavored with chives and sun-dried tomatoes. The health salad (NIS 38) was given a flavorful kick with granola and Tzfatit cheese. The feta salad (NIS 38) came loaded with sweet potato wedges and dried chips.
The onion quiche came with a crispy, fresh crust, and while the raw materials were fresh and tasty, the onions were a little too undercooked for my taste. Sweet potato seems to be a favored ingredient at Borochov 88, as it was the subject of another quiche and a pasta dish, both delightful.
For a protein entree, Borochov offers fish: grilled salmon, salmon kebab, and the daily catch. I tried the grilled sea bream (NIS 65). The dish was generous and fresh, served on a bed of, what else, a sweet potato mash. Pesto and a light red pepper coulis adorned the perimeter of the dish, but I would have rather a tailored sauce or seasoning layered the fish itself, which required a bit more interest. Lemon wedges on the side would have been nice.
For now, desserts are imported from a bakery in Rishon Lezion, and they include a variety of cakes. Once the rest of the menu is perfected, Borochov 88 will make its own desserts on premises. If their homemade chocolate cookies are a taste of what is to come, that's a good thing.
Overall Borochov 88 is a recommended all-purpose cafe-restaurant, particularly for kosher-eaters interested in casual dining, business lunches, a birthday dinner, morning coffee and pastry, or a first date. It includes a balcony facing the street and a VIP room for 80 people.
Borochov 88, Ra'anana, (09) 744-2203; Menu in English to come.
Expanding the olive branch
Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; November 1, 2007
The 13th annual Olive Branch Festival sheds light on new initiatives in an ancient Galilean olive industry.
'Thou shalt have olive trees throughout all thy borders' Deuteronomy 28:40
In the Galilee, the olive branch is not just a symbol of peace, but a catalyst for peace. Olive is the traditional crop of the Mediterranean basin, and northern Israel is home to Israel's olive oil industry, with olive groves dotting the landscape. The olive binds the different cultures represented there: Druse, Christian, Muslim and Jewish, for whom the production of olive oil is an ancient and modern art and science.
Olive oil has been a family affair for centuries among Arab families in Israel, with families pressing their own oil in their backyard. Ancient Jewish tradition is dripping with allusions to olive oil. Olive oil was used to anoint Israeli kings and to light the menorah.
With the olive season under way in the north, the Israel Olive Oil Board and the Galilee Development Authority are holding their 13th annual Olive Branch Festival until November 11 to celebrate the historic versatility of the fruit; the growing sophistication of olive oil production in Israel and the cultural tolerance that the olive fosters. While some themed events simply tack on the word 'festival' as a marketing device, the Olive Branch Festival promises to be a bona-fide educational and gastronomic event for the whole family, with an array of activities, workshops, tours and special treats. A sneak preview of the festival offered insight into the culture, production, trade and health benefits of the olive and its derivatives.
HANANIAH OLIVE RANCH
Since its founding 10 years ago, the Israel Olive Board has sought to revolutionize the olive oil industry in Israel - to set quality control standards and raise the Israel's worldwide reputation in the field. The board's quality assurance label printed on local olive oils means that the oil has passed its laboratory tests. Some olive oils sold at stores can be diluted with other oils.
'Always look for the label of the Israel Olive Board on the olive oils you buy,' advises Amin Hasan, director of the Israel Olive Board, from his headquarters at the Hananiah Ranch, northeast of the Kinneret.
Hasan, 51, a Druse resident of Sajur, has experienced firsthand the wonders of olive oil as a social lubricant among Arabs and Jews. He served in the Israeli security forces for 17 years before trading in his gun for the olive branch. In 2002, he lost his daughter to a terrorist attack on a bus at the Meron junction.
Despite his personal loss to Palestinian terror, he is proud of 'the good cooperation with the PA and Israel in the olive field.'
The board works with the Palestinian Authority to improve olive oil production in the West Bank, where olive oil production, mostly by traditional methods, reaches five times that of Israel. There are over 900,000 dunams of olive groves in the West Bank, compared to Israel's 220,000 within the green line. Israel produces about 9,000 tons of olive oil annually, almost half the amount it consumes.
Hasan has another source of pride: 'I succeed in bringing Jews to their roots, which is the olive branch.'
EIN CAMONIM DAIRY & OLIVE PRESS
Amiram Ovrutsky, owner of the family-run Ein Camonim dairy and olive press, is one of the first Jews to revive Jewish olive production in the north, but before embarking on his olive path, he took a wrong turn. When he first settled in Galilee in 1979, he imported Barbary ducks, a delicacy in France, for commercial purposes.
'It was a failure,' said Ovrutski, 75. Ovrutski is a sabra, but his parents are from Russia. 'We needed something else to do that would support a small family.'
He observed the potential of his land for olive groves and goat farming, and he and his family turned to cheese and olive oil production. 'The Polish Ashkenazim only broke into the industry about 25 years ago.'
They started with labane, and today Ein Camonim produces a rich variety of delectable cheeses which they sell at a shop on the premises and serve in a charming outdoor cafe as part of a country-inspired meal. Ein Camonim's delicious olive oil is produced in a nearby press where olives are ground on millstone in the traditional way and modern equipment is used to extract the oil. Olive press demonstrations will be offered to the public during the festival.
SABA HAVIV OLIVE OIL AND SOAP
Not far from Ein Camonim at Kibbutz Parod, the Haviv family sells its award-winning olive oil named after 'Saba Haviv' or 'Grandpa Haviv.' Haviv started making his mark as a soapmaker in 1913. The story goes that families would give the young boy their personal olive oil, and he'd use it in his soap.
Haviv means 'pleasant' in Hebrew, and that word aptly describes the Haviv family, a Christian clan consisting of Haviv's six grandsons and a granddaughter, who together run the business. The pride in their tradition and their hospitality comes through in their friendly demonstrations and explanations.
At their visitors' center, the 26-year-old Wahil often gives lectures on the uses and health properties of olive oil. As he speaks, the tehina press crushes sesame seeds into tasty, organic raw tehina paste. For NIS 25, visitors can buy a jar of tehina paste made right here. During the festival, booths will be set up at their premises to offer demonstrations of olive curing, jam making and samples of the family's products. Soaps made from Haviv's original recipe are on sale at the family shop in Kibbutz Parod for NIS 10.
AYA NATURAL COSMETICS
Soap and other skin care products made with olive oil are sold at Aya Natural, a natural cosmetics company headquartered in the Druse village of Beit Jann. It's a winding, uphill road to the rather secluded Beit Jann, home to some 10,000 Druse. But the two founders, Dr. Ziad Dabour, a senior pharmacist, and Jamal Hamoud, a senior chemist, deliberately built their boutique and visitor's center in the village of their birth.
'It's difficult for women to work outside the village and we wanted to give employment to married women,' explained Hamoud. He employs about a dozen women from the village. Beit Jann is turning towards country hospitality to boost internal employment; at present about 100 guest rooms are available for tourists.
Beit Jann has long exploited the benefits of olive oil in preserving and strengthening the skin and body.
'In the Druse tradition and in Beit Jann in particular, we wrapped babies in olive oil and myrtle powder for immunization,' explained Hamoud. 'We wanted to combine pharmaceutical knowledge with tradition.'
Aya sells its products across Europe and Israel. Most products are 100% natural and biodegradable, made from Galilean olive oil and other essential oils.
Their tie to the land of Israel is captured in the name of Aya, which is the Hebrew acronym for 'Israel the Beautiful.'
Olive Branch Festival Hotline:
1-599-50-60-61,www.galil.gov.il/zait. Check with the hotline to find out times and places of events.
See p.12 for tomorrow's JNF tour.
Ein Camonim: (04) 698-9680
Saba Haviv: (04) 684-9074
Aya Natural: (04) 980-5066, www.ayanatural.com
The 13th annual Olive Branch Festival sheds light on new initiatives in an ancient Galilean olive industry.
'Thou shalt have olive trees throughout all thy borders' Deuteronomy 28:40
In the Galilee, the olive branch is not just a symbol of peace, but a catalyst for peace. Olive is the traditional crop of the Mediterranean basin, and northern Israel is home to Israel's olive oil industry, with olive groves dotting the landscape. The olive binds the different cultures represented there: Druse, Christian, Muslim and Jewish, for whom the production of olive oil is an ancient and modern art and science.
Olive oil has been a family affair for centuries among Arab families in Israel, with families pressing their own oil in their backyard. Ancient Jewish tradition is dripping with allusions to olive oil. Olive oil was used to anoint Israeli kings and to light the menorah.
With the olive season under way in the north, the Israel Olive Oil Board and the Galilee Development Authority are holding their 13th annual Olive Branch Festival until November 11 to celebrate the historic versatility of the fruit; the growing sophistication of olive oil production in Israel and the cultural tolerance that the olive fosters. While some themed events simply tack on the word 'festival' as a marketing device, the Olive Branch Festival promises to be a bona-fide educational and gastronomic event for the whole family, with an array of activities, workshops, tours and special treats. A sneak preview of the festival offered insight into the culture, production, trade and health benefits of the olive and its derivatives.
HANANIAH OLIVE RANCH
Since its founding 10 years ago, the Israel Olive Board has sought to revolutionize the olive oil industry in Israel - to set quality control standards and raise the Israel's worldwide reputation in the field. The board's quality assurance label printed on local olive oils means that the oil has passed its laboratory tests. Some olive oils sold at stores can be diluted with other oils.
'Always look for the label of the Israel Olive Board on the olive oils you buy,' advises Amin Hasan, director of the Israel Olive Board, from his headquarters at the Hananiah Ranch, northeast of the Kinneret.
Hasan, 51, a Druse resident of Sajur, has experienced firsthand the wonders of olive oil as a social lubricant among Arabs and Jews. He served in the Israeli security forces for 17 years before trading in his gun for the olive branch. In 2002, he lost his daughter to a terrorist attack on a bus at the Meron junction.
Despite his personal loss to Palestinian terror, he is proud of 'the good cooperation with the PA and Israel in the olive field.'
The board works with the Palestinian Authority to improve olive oil production in the West Bank, where olive oil production, mostly by traditional methods, reaches five times that of Israel. There are over 900,000 dunams of olive groves in the West Bank, compared to Israel's 220,000 within the green line. Israel produces about 9,000 tons of olive oil annually, almost half the amount it consumes.
Hasan has another source of pride: 'I succeed in bringing Jews to their roots, which is the olive branch.'
EIN CAMONIM DAIRY & OLIVE PRESS
Amiram Ovrutsky, owner of the family-run Ein Camonim dairy and olive press, is one of the first Jews to revive Jewish olive production in the north, but before embarking on his olive path, he took a wrong turn. When he first settled in Galilee in 1979, he imported Barbary ducks, a delicacy in France, for commercial purposes.
'It was a failure,' said Ovrutski, 75. Ovrutski is a sabra, but his parents are from Russia. 'We needed something else to do that would support a small family.'
He observed the potential of his land for olive groves and goat farming, and he and his family turned to cheese and olive oil production. 'The Polish Ashkenazim only broke into the industry about 25 years ago.'
They started with labane, and today Ein Camonim produces a rich variety of delectable cheeses which they sell at a shop on the premises and serve in a charming outdoor cafe as part of a country-inspired meal. Ein Camonim's delicious olive oil is produced in a nearby press where olives are ground on millstone in the traditional way and modern equipment is used to extract the oil. Olive press demonstrations will be offered to the public during the festival.
SABA HAVIV OLIVE OIL AND SOAP
Not far from Ein Camonim at Kibbutz Parod, the Haviv family sells its award-winning olive oil named after 'Saba Haviv' or 'Grandpa Haviv.' Haviv started making his mark as a soapmaker in 1913. The story goes that families would give the young boy their personal olive oil, and he'd use it in his soap.
Haviv means 'pleasant' in Hebrew, and that word aptly describes the Haviv family, a Christian clan consisting of Haviv's six grandsons and a granddaughter, who together run the business. The pride in their tradition and their hospitality comes through in their friendly demonstrations and explanations.
At their visitors' center, the 26-year-old Wahil often gives lectures on the uses and health properties of olive oil. As he speaks, the tehina press crushes sesame seeds into tasty, organic raw tehina paste. For NIS 25, visitors can buy a jar of tehina paste made right here. During the festival, booths will be set up at their premises to offer demonstrations of olive curing, jam making and samples of the family's products. Soaps made from Haviv's original recipe are on sale at the family shop in Kibbutz Parod for NIS 10.
AYA NATURAL COSMETICS
Soap and other skin care products made with olive oil are sold at Aya Natural, a natural cosmetics company headquartered in the Druse village of Beit Jann. It's a winding, uphill road to the rather secluded Beit Jann, home to some 10,000 Druse. But the two founders, Dr. Ziad Dabour, a senior pharmacist, and Jamal Hamoud, a senior chemist, deliberately built their boutique and visitor's center in the village of their birth.
'It's difficult for women to work outside the village and we wanted to give employment to married women,' explained Hamoud. He employs about a dozen women from the village. Beit Jann is turning towards country hospitality to boost internal employment; at present about 100 guest rooms are available for tourists.
Beit Jann has long exploited the benefits of olive oil in preserving and strengthening the skin and body.
'In the Druse tradition and in Beit Jann in particular, we wrapped babies in olive oil and myrtle powder for immunization,' explained Hamoud. 'We wanted to combine pharmaceutical knowledge with tradition.'
Aya sells its products across Europe and Israel. Most products are 100% natural and biodegradable, made from Galilean olive oil and other essential oils.
Their tie to the land of Israel is captured in the name of Aya, which is the Hebrew acronym for 'Israel the Beautiful.'
Olive Branch Festival Hotline:
1-599-50-60-61,www.galil.gov.il/zait. Check with the hotline to find out times and places of events.
See p.12 for tomorrow's JNF tour.
Ein Camonim: (04) 698-9680
Saba Haviv: (04) 684-9074
Aya Natural: (04) 980-5066, www.ayanatural.com
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