Whatever floats your boat

Jerusalem Post, Weekend Magazine; September 12, 2007

You don't need to go as far as Ein Boqeq to enjoy the Dead Sea. The northern tip offers ecology, archeology and a great deal of hospitality

When planning a vacation at the Dead Sea, Israelis and foreigners usually conjure up the vast hotel district south of Ein Gedi where Israel's major hotel chains have long set up shop. And while the hotel district offers five star amenities and organized entertainment, a much more authentic, ecologically-minded and historic Dead Sea vacation is available only about half an hour away from Jerusalem in the northern region of the Dead Sea. The nature reserves, kibbutz hospitality and historic sites provide a deep experience of the Dead Sea as the waters, unfortunately, get increasingly shallow.

EINOT TZUKIM: THE WORLD'S LOWEST NATURE RESERVE
Along the road to the Dead Sea are chilling reminders that the sea is suffering. Water extraction from the Jordan River by Israel and Jordan has deprived the Dead Sea of its natural refill, and the waters are plunging approximately one meter every year (1 billion cubic meters). Charred on the hefty brown cliffs along the road are markers drawn by the Palestine Exploration Fund in the 1960s which indicate the waters' former glory. Since then the Dead Sea, the lowest place on earth, has gotten even lower by some 25 meters.

Einot Tzukim, the world's lowest nature reserve, is located at the northern tip of the Dead Sea and is not only recommended as nature's playground, but as a window into the dehydration of the Dead Sea. Tours are available through the minty-green fauna which show where aquifers leading into the Dead Sea from the Jerusalem hills have brought green life, and where the disappearance of the sea has left large patches of arid, dead land.

Einot Tzukim used to be a very popular beach from the 1980s, but in 2000 it has refashioned itself into a nature reserve, due in part to the receding waters. A marker inside the park shows how the waters have receded one kilometer since 1984.
'We could no longer keep moving the facilities,' explained Eldan Hazan, the park ranger.

But a relaxing and cleansing experience overflowing with water can still be had in the springs and streams of brackish waters (lightly salted waters) that flow in random nooks and corners underneath tamarisk and willow trees. One picnic area even features tables and benches set in the waters, where visitors can chill their feet in the waters while eating lunch.

Inside the nature reserve are the remnants of a queer Jewish agricultural ranch and villa from the Roman period that gives a peak into the life of residents there in ancient times.

Entrance fee: Adult NIS 23; Child NIS 12; Summer hours: 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Tel: (09) 994-2355

AN ARCHEOLOGICAL WONDER: QUMRAN
Every year thousands of Israelis visit the Shrine of the Book at the Israel Museum, Jerusalem where a major portion of the Dead Sea scrolls, one of the most groundbreaking archeological finds, has been on display since 1965. But according to Nati Tzameret, a guide at Qumran National Park, many fewer Israelis have visited the site where the Scrolls were made and found: Qumran. About eighty percent of the visitors at Qumran are foreigners, mostly Christians.

It's a shame Israelis overlook the source of the Dead Sea Scrolls. The Qumran site is like a fascinating time capsule of the period in which the Dead Sea Scrolls were said to have been written, from the second century BCE to the great Jewish revolt in 68 C.E. Here the Essenes, a breakaway, ascetic Jewish sect, lived a communal live in search of spiritual purity. When there is a full moon at night, the site hardly requires artificial lighting. Qumran means moon in Aramaic, and a full-bodied yellow moon rises from the east in direct contact with the sun's rays.

A short exhibition of life in Qumran opens with a movie dramatizing the ways and behaviors of the Essenes: their ritual of strict silence while eating, their near obsession with ritual baths and their devotion to writing down the words of the Torah. Tzameret explained that John the Baptist probably didn't last at Qumran for too long because he possessed an individualistic bent.

The managers of this site have meticulously preserved the archeological remnants of the Essene commune and have carved wheelchair-friendly path between the ritual baths, cisterns, communal dining hall and scribe room. Insight into the esoteric lives of the Essenes, their agriculture, industry and family life, is provided by knowledgeable guides.

A restaurant and gift shop belonging to Kibbutz Kalia next door is open from 9 am - 6 pm.

Entrance: 18 Nis adult; 9 NIS child; (Tel) 02-9942235

FROM SPIRITUAL TO PHYSICAL PURITY: MINERAL BEACH
The Dea Sea is known not only for its spiritual benefits, but for its physical ones too. Forget the water troubles of the Dead Sea and enjoy the waters at Mineral Beach instead, a relatively simple, quiet, and clean beach where visitors can take a quick, theraputic float in the Sea.

One section of the beach is cordoned off for scooping generous helpings of mineral-rich mud. Just watch your step. It's easy to get your feet sucked into the mud and there are no warning signs, although a lifeguard is on duty. But the small risk is well worth it. The mud is an excellent natural body scrub, leaving the skin soft and refreshed. An outdoor sulphur pool draws its water directly from a sulphur spring that bubbles not far away. On weekdays the beach is particularly peaceful.
Facilities include a snack bar, gift shop, treatment rooms, showers, and lockers.

Entrance: Adult NIS 50; Child: NIS 25; Senior: NIS 37 (discount on weekdays) Tel: (02) 994-4888

WHERE TO STAY
Kibbutz Kalia: Kibbutz Kalia is located adjacent to the Qumran National Park. The atmosphere is more tropical than desert with plenty of grass and flower-filled trees adorning the pathways and corridors. Rooms are simple yet comfortable, and most are equipped with a kitchenette, television, telephone and air conditioner. There is a convenience store and pub on the premises and a beautiful, refreshing pool. Tel: (02) 993-6333. NIS 380/NIS 540.

Metzukei Dragot: Located deeper into the Judaen desert and away from the sea, Metzukei Dragot is a natural choice for spiritual seekers and desert wanderers. They have recently upgraded some of the rooms, but don't expect luxury or televisions, unless luxury is breathing the mineral rich desert air. The purpose of Metzukei Dragot is simplicity and spirituality, and they often host spiritual, new-age workshops. Rooms vary in size and amenities, and sturdy outdoor tents are available for those who really don't mind roughing it.
Rates range from NIS 210-450; Camping grounds: NIS 60 adult; NIS 40 child. Tel: (02) 994-4777

Kibbutz Almog: This very ecologically minded kibbutz is currently building an environmentally-friendly community on its adjacent grounds, what the designers refer to as Israel's answer to Arizona. Homes will be built with an earthy, sandy design and equipped with plumbing for recycling water and pergolas on roofs to provide maximum natural cooling. Almog also has a guest house and spa on the premises, but for those want to make their vacation at the Dead Sea permanent, this is one place to try out. Tel: (02) 994-5201.

WHERE TO EAT:
Second Chance for 'Last Chance'
Last Chance, a shanty cafe and restaurant that has served as a popular stopover between Jerusalem and the Dead Sea for the past twelve years, completely burned down last May due to an unfortunate accident. The Taib family, who owns and runs the business, is clearly heartbroken. They had invested a lot of love, time and energy in building the restaurant with their own hands using all-natural materials, such as sand and rock.

But after some hesitation, members of the Taib family decided to reopen, with the generous help and support of the Megliot Regional Council. They have recently broken ground for a sturdier home for Last Chance, this time to be built with a contractor. In the meantime they have created a large, square, Bedouin style tent where they serve their Middle-Eastern favorites: humus, Bedouin pitas, shakshuka, grilled meats, magluba (a rice dish), and tehina cookies.

Tel: (02) 940-9414; 050-2637020

HOW TO GET THERE:
Route 9 has shortened the driving time from Tel Aviv to the Dead Sea by about 15 minutes. Follow Route 9 to the route 1 that connect Jerusalem and the Dead Sea.

Privilege to be a customer (restaurant review)

Jerusalem Post, Billboard; September 7, 2007

It's very rare for a restaurant whose owner scoffs at the phrase "the customer is always right" to be so successful. But don't let Amos Hagai's attitude put you off. He believes the customer isn't always right because he is dedicated to perfection, and if the customer isn't satisfied, well, that's his problem.

"People who come here have to appreciate it," Hagai, owner and manager of Macaroni & Grill, proudly declared upon meeting at the restaurant on a late Sunday afternoon.

It's clear Hagai is a colorful character on the northern culinary scene, and the former cooking instructor gives the impression of someone who has dedicated his life to good food and wine.

Judging from the way Macaroni & Grill was filled, it seems that more often than not, customers are satisfied. Since its founding eight years ago, Macaroni & Grill has emerged as a Rosh Pina establishment famous for its hamburgers, or "am-burgers" as he calls them. It originally started in a small storefront on the main cobblestone road of Rosh Pina (now home to the Lechem Erez cafe), but four years ago it moved to the mini outdoor mall located at the entrance of the city.

Hagai's standards of perfection were evident in the impressive interior, which he designed himself. The place is enveloped in fine wood, the tables and stools handcrafted. It gives off the aura of a sophisticated Western bistro. People generally don't come to Macaroni & Grill to drink by the bar, but Hagai installed a fully-stocked bar for effect.

If first impressions count when it comes to food, the home-made olive starter foreboded well for Hagai. Nestled in olive oil and freshly cut garlic, their flavor was balanced, not too bitter or too spicy.

The menu is large and eclectic. Appetizers include chicken wings, kebab, sausages, carpaccio and an array of shrimp dishes. Entrees include steaks, four kinds of schnitzel, seafood, fish, pasta, and Asian noodles. But first timers are usually recommended to try Hagai's burgers. He comes in early in the morning to grind and spice the meat himself, the way he has for the past eight years. He meticulously chooses the men in the kitchen based on their lack of experience.

"I hire only beginner chefs so that they don't bring in their bad habits," he said. Hagai is intent on training his chefs personally to maintain flavor consistency throughout the years.

That lack of experience definitely makes for good burgers. The 220-gram juicy patty (NIS 38, but different sizes are available) was fresh and delicious. The white buns didn't really justify the fine raw materials of the meat, but Hagai insisted he tried many bakeries before settling on the privileged bun. I would love for him to make his own - and why not try whole wheat? Towards the end I preferred to enjoy the meat on its own - it didn't need all the trimmings. The French fries (NIS 10/20) were fine: definitely nothing to complain about (luckily enough for "good customer" wannabe me).

Hagai demonstrated that he can master desserts as well. His mahlebi, like a homemade sahleb, had an even-gelled consistency. Usually mahlebis are too candy-like for me, but his wasn't too sweet, and it refreshed me after the burger. I'm generally not a fan of knafe, the sweet Lebanese noodle pastry glued together with cheese, but Hagai's was enjoyable and served very fresh and hot, just like the burgers.

All in all, I think I'd be a welcome customer at Macaroni & Grill in the future. I can appreciate it.

Open everyday 11:30 a.m. - midnight; Center HaGalil Mall, Rosh Pina, (04) 680-1592; not kosher.